En Primeur 2023

The 2023 Valandraud is a full-throttle, opulent Saint-Émilion endowed with notable textural richness and tons of intensity. This really feels pushed to the edge, but it pulls back at the very last second. Inky dark fruit, chocolate, new leather, licorice and menthol saturate the palate. I imagine that the 2023 will require a number of years to shed some of its baby fat. Harvest took place from September 20 to October 10—on the later side.

Score: 94 - 96 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2048

Inky depths to Valandraud in this vintage, well constructued, intense sweet liqourice and black chocolate, starts out threatening a more old school feel for this wine, with crème de cassis dominant and high alcohols, but it is given focus and lift as it moves through the palate, with lilting aromatics of red roses, welcome pummice stone tannins, squid ink salinity, and mouthwatering freshness. Skilful, confident, impressive. 100% new oak for ageing, Jean-Luc Thunevin owner at this 10.7ha estate (currently replanting several plots, so 6.6ha in production). 40hl/ha yield.

Score: 95 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2030-2045

The 2023 Vieux Château Certan is like a drug. Its exotic aromatics, deeply layered fruit and sublime textures are just captivating. I tasted the 2023 from an assembled base blend and four core components. Every wine was nothing short of breathtaking. When I think of the archetypes of greatness in Bordeaux, VCC is one of them. The 2023 is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Like all producers, Alexandre and Guillaume were forced to decide whether to pick their Cabernets before or after the September rains. As it turned out, none of the lots picked before the rain made it into the Grand Vin. Only those picked later were deemed of high enough quality.

Score: 96 - 98 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2031-2063

The 2023 Vieux Château Certan bursts from the glass with demonstrative aromas of dark berries, pencil shavings, violets mingled with notions of burning embers, iris, crushed mint and black tea. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and sensual, with a gourmand attack that segues into a layered, enveloping mid-palate, it's polished and perfumed, with a sweet core of fruit and a long, gently oak-inflected finish. This year's blend of 82% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc checks in at 14% alcohol and a pH of 3.74.

Score: 94 - 96 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

The 2023 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 18 to 29. This year, there is no Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend as the fruit did not reach full ripeness, according to winemaker Guillaume Thienpont. The fruit was cropped at 43hL/ha as they suffered no mildew, there were one-third fewer pump-overs, and this vintage matured in two-thirds new oak. It has a well-defined bouquet, a little sultry at first: black cherry, iodine, violet flower and a touch of crushed stone. This unfurls beautifully in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. Broader in the mouth compared to the Le Pin that I tasted right before, this is slightly more savory in style thanks to the 18% Cabernet Franc, landing gently on the finish. This is an elegant, slightly earthier VCC that will age beautifully in the bottle.

Score: 94 - 96 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2029-2055