En Primeur Bordeaux 2017

St Estephe - The wines with tasting notes


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[Add to wish list] [Add to pre-order list] Calon Segur St Estephe Unreleased 92-94 94-95 92-94 94 91-94 -
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The 2017 Calon-Ségur was cropped at 43.5hl/ha and underwent a 20-day cuvaison after which it is matured entirely in new oak for 20 months. It contains 13.2° alcohol. At the moment the aromatics convey the 100% new oak but there is sufficient fruit underneath. There is a palpable sense of “coolness” imbuing the aromatics and like other Saint-Estèphe barrel samples, it conveys a subtle estuary-like tincture. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannin, beautifully integrated new oak that lends this a silky texture. Perhaps this is the smoothest of all the 2017s I encountered within this appellation, a classy and sophisticated Calon-Ségur in the making and heightened by the thrilling tension towards the finish and the latent energy that lingers in the mouth. Excellent.

Score: 92 - 94 Neal Martin, Vinous Media.com Maturity: 2024-2045

This is very delicate on the attack but it grows on the palate with firm and silky tannins that turn lightly chewy. Builds consistently. Compacted and tight.

Score: 94 - 95 James Suckling, Jamessuckling.com

The 2017 Calon-Ségur is tentatively blended of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-purple in color, it opens with pronounced black currants, crushed blackberries and fresh black plums with hints of cigar box, sandalwood and cinnamon stick plus a waft of mossy bark. The palate is medium-bodied, elegant, energetic and fresh with layers of black fruit, perfumed incense and fragrant earth notions, lingering nicely with exotic spices coming through on the finish.

Score: 92 - 94 Lisa Perotti-Brown MW, robertparker.com

This is rich, with fresh blueberry and cassis notes. The fruit is on the elegant side, and this should be earlier to drink than the 2016 and even the 2014. Technical director Vincent Bache-Gabrielsen and the team took an interesting approach to building the mid-palate, increasing the persistency by re-integrating the press wine immediately after vinification, so having both free run and press wine together during maceration. Blending the press wine at such an early stage took a leap of faith, as did using so much of the young, nine-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon in the first blend. But it works - this is precise, balanced and appealing, building slowly over the palate. Yield of 43.5hl/ha, 40% of production into the grand vin. 3.7pH.

Score: 94 Jane Anson, Decanter.com Maturity: 2025-2040

This is very pure and sleek in feel, with an iron note running from start to finish while cassis, cherry and damson plum fruit plays out. The long, focused finish has light bay and savory hints while letting the minerality sing.

Score: 91 - 94 James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

Inky core with black-cherry rim. Ripe, dark and with a fine mineral cast to the cassis fruit, which is ripe but not sweet. Paper-fine tannins in many layers. Great ageing potential but also accessible. Deceptively accessible, suggesting lack of ageing ability, but I don't think that is the case. Cool, fresh, serious, fine cassis fruit. The finesse comes from the lack of sweetness but there's no lack of fruit. Dry, firm and very St-Estèphe, with tannin structure. But the structure is filled molecule by molecule with the fruit. It's so finely balanced. There's more firmness than in Cos but there's still excellent harmony. Opens to a hint of violets. Super-moreish and juicy even with the structure of the terroir. (17.5+ Points)

Score: 17 - 18 Julia Harding MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2025-2040

The 2017 Calon Ségur is a smoking effort and lends credence to the idea that the northern Médoc (Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe) was the place to be in 2017. Deep purple-colored, it’s packed with notions of ripe blackberries, black cherries, crushed rocks, and Asian spice characteristics that all flow to a medium to full-bodied, rich, concentrated, sexy 2017 that has more fruit, depth, and richness than most. The 2017 is a rough blend at the moment of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and the rest Petit Verdot, which will spend 20 months in new French oak.

Score: 92 - 94 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

The 2017 Calon Ségur is a classy, polished wine. Conditions favored Cabernet Sauvignon, which makes up 76% of the blend. Open-knit and supple, the 2017 is surprisingly open and harmonious in the early going. Hints of espresso, mocha, red cherry jam, cinnamon and dusk of new French oak add accents, but it is the wine's gentle personality that stands out most. In some vintages, Calon Ségur speaks loudly. In 2017, the Grand Vin is hushed and yet very expressive. The blend is 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Tasted three times.

Score: 90 - 93 Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media.com

[Add to wish list] [Add to pre-order list] Cos d'Estournel St Estephe Unreleased 94-96 97-98 97-100 94 - -
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The 2017 Cos d’Estournel is matured in 60% new oak and comprises 13% alcohol, approximately the same as the 2016. It has a more expressive and welcoming bouquet than usual, maybe more indicative of how this wine will mature in bottle, less opaque than the 2016. A common theme throughout the range from Cos d’Estournel is a Pauillac-inspired backbone/tannic structure coupled with an attractive scent wafting over from the estuary...think mudflats, oyster shells and the tang of sea spray. It gains a little intensity with aeration but never fully lets go. The palate is very well balanced with filigree tannin, rendering this one of the most approachable barrel samples from the estate in recent years. The coolness of the latter part of the season defines this Saint-Estèphe more than the precocity of June: streamlined, cool and linear with a velvety finish that feels sleek, to the point of being understated, though that belies its length and focus. This is simply a very classy wine in the making and typical of the more recent sophisticated style pursued by the property in recent years.

Score: 94 - 96 Neal Martin, Vinous Media.com Maturity: 2022-2045

Love tasting this wine. You almost want to drink it for its harmony and balance. Full-bodied and so complete with cloves, spices, dark berries and hints of chocolate. Wonderful integration on the finish.

Score: 97 - 98 James Suckling, Jamessuckling.com

The final blend of the 2017 Cos d'Estournel is 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Very deep purple-black in color, it offers up intense scents of crushed blackcurrants, blackberries and black cherries with touches of incense, spice cake, star anise and plum preserves plus a perfumed hint of potpourri. The palate is medium-bodied with very firm yet wonderfully ripe, "sweet", fine-grained tannins at just 13% alcohol—something of a miracle in our modern times. The palate sports fantastic freshness and tons of energy emitted from the intensely perfumed black fruit layers, finishing on an epically long-lingering mineral note. Truly profound.

Score: 97 - 100 Lisa Perotti-Brown MW, robertparker.com

This is exceptional, if a touch below the intensity and harmony of 2016. I love the density that's displayed in this wine, showcasing luxurious, well-enrobed tannins. The complexity steals up on you little by little, the dark cassis and plum fruit character deepening through the palate with flashes of sage, charcoal, cigar box, graphite and taut tannins. The colour difference is marked between the grand vin and second wine, with the Cos extremely deep damson in colour following a one-month maceration at 30 degrees and clever use of the press. Harvested 12- 30 September. 40% of production went into the grand vin. 3.7pH. IPT68. 60% new oak.

Score: 94 Jane Anson, Decanter.com Maturity: 2026-2040

The 2017 Cos-d'Estournel grand vin is 66 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 32 Merlot, 1 Petit Verdot, 1 Cabernet Franc, and comprises just 40 percent of the crop, a slightly stricter-than-usual selection. It's nicely built, with a still-compact core of damson plum, cherry and cassis fruit laced liberally with very fine iron and lilac notes. The pure finish has a lovely pitch, with the sheen and gloss of the house style but a lingering tug of minerality running along as well.

Score: - James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

Inky with black core and purple rim. Dark-fruited and lightly charry to give a savoury/fruit complexity. Extremely pure cassis. A little more chewy than the Pagodes but still remarkably silky, with clarity, precision and length but without excess richness. Deep and long. Amazing balance already. Great precision, helped by a decade of experience in the new chai, says technical director Dominique Arangoits. Opens in the glass to reveal a hint of something floral. Plenty of depth but no excess weight, and modest alcohol. (17.5+ Points)

Score: 17 - 18 Julia Harding MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2025-2040

A wine that might surpass the 2014 and 2015, the 2017 Cos d'Estournel checks in as a blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, harvested between the 12th and 30th of September, and brought up in 60% new French oak. While it’s not a huge wine, it has incredible purity and precision as well as terrific notes of crème de cassis, graphite, damp earth, and crushed rock. Possessing ultra-fine tannin, beautiful balance, and again, awesome purity of fruit, it’s going to benefit from short-term cellaring and cruise for two decades in the cellar.

Score: 94 - 96 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

The 2017 Cos d'Estournel is a sleek, polished wine built on finesse more than power. Sweet, perfumed aromatics and silky tannins add to that impression. In 2017 the Grand Vin shows a distinctly red-fruit and floral character that matches its mid-weight personality nicely. The blend is 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc. New oak is around 60%.

Score: 92 - 95 Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media.com

[Add to wish list] [Add to pre-order list] Dame de Montrose (2nd wine of Montrose) St Estephe Unreleased 88-90 91-92 89-91 90 - -
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The 2017 La Dame de Montrose represents 40% of the total production this year. The Merlot, which constitutes nearly half the blend, occupies the driving seat on the nose with copious black cherry, raspberry and cedar scents that blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a ripe, almost confit-like entry. It feels harmonious with fine tannin, perhaps not the length of say the 2014 or 2016 La Dame de Montrose, a little more compact in style at the moment, loosening up and gaining more harmony by the time of my second visit in mid-April. It certainly has pleasing purity and it should drink well over the next decade.

Score: 88 - 90 Neal Martin, Vinous Media.com Maturity: 2019-2030

A juicy and savory second wine with blackberry, blueberry and wet-earth character. Medium-bodied, tight and silky. Fresh finish.

Score: 91 - 92 James Suckling, Jamessuckling.com

Composed of 49% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, the 2017 La Dame de Montrose is deep garnet-purple colored with a very fragrant nose of violets, lavender and dark chocolate over a core of cassis, Provence herbs and smoked meats. The palate is medium-bodied and very refreshing with ripe, very soft tannins, elegant and refined with a perfumed finish.

Score: 89 - 91 Lisa Perotti-Brown MW, robertparker.com

A good year for Dame de Montrose, showing extremely well balanced plum and damson fruits, and a lovely texture. There was no frost here, as you would expect from a vineyard so close to the Garonne river. Harvest took place between 12-29 September. 4% Cabernet Franc makes up the blend given here. The cellar is now equipped with over 90 small-sized vats, and this is matured in 30% new oak. 40% of production.

Score: 90 Jane Anson, Decanter.com Maturity: 2024-2038

The 2017 La Dame de Montrose (second wine) represents 32 percent of the crop and is a 49 percent Merlot, 43 Cabernet Sauvignon, 4 Cabernet Franc, 4 Petit Verdot blend. It's sleek and pure, with a nice iron and sanguine frame around damson plum and cherry fruit.

Score: - James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

Deep crimson. Much more scented than the Tronquoy-Lalande, lovely dark fruit on the nose. But still with that savoury graphite quality of the grand vin. Fully ripe but not sweet. Even a touch floral. Silky texture, tannins are so supple. Lightish but juicy on the mid palate and with a good balance between fruit and freshness even in this lighter mode.

Score: 16 - 17 Julia Harding MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2022-2030

Looking at the second wine of the estate, the 2017 La Dame De Montrose is a Merlot-heavy blend that includes 43% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This deep, inky-colored effort boasts textbook sweet black cherry, damp earth, tobacco, and hints of flowers in a dark, medium-bodied, impressively concentrated package. It’s impressive.

Score: 90 - 92 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

The 2017 La Dame de Montrose is powerful, dense and also a bit rough around the edges. This is an especially hearty vintage for La Dame. In 2017, the Merlots were really affected by the early September rains. Much of the fruit was either bulked out or put into the generic Saint-Estèphe. As a result, Cabernet Sauvignon plays a larger role in the blend than it usually does. It will be interesting to see if the 2017 acquires more finesse in aging. Today, I have my doubts it will. La Dame is 40% of the chateau's production. The blend is 49% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot.

Score: 87 - 89 Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media.com

[Add to wish list] [Add to pre-order list] Lafon Rochet St Estephe Unreleased 91-93 92-93 85-87 93 87-90 -
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The 2017 Lafon-Rochet has matured in 50% new oak and the remainder in one-year old. I have to say, the bouquet is very expressive with plenty of blackberry, wild hedgerow, oyster shell and pressed flower that blossom in the glass. It is very well defined and more sophisticated than I have detected in recent vintages. Perhaps this is the first vintage where the new winery, replete with concrete vats, has really played a serious role in meliorating quality. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, quite saline in the mouth with just a hint of black olive. There is a slightly grainy texture with a sustained peppery finish, completing a crisp and vivacious Lafon-Rochet that should please many wine-lovers. Expect this to land at the top of my banded score.

Score: 91 - 93 Neal Martin, Vinous Media.com Maturity: 2020-2040

Solid, ultra-clean 2017 with a very pretty core of fruit and chewy tannins. Flavorful and fresh. Extremely long and focused.

Score: 92 - 93 James Suckling, Jamessuckling.com

Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Lafon-Rochet gives up subtle cassis and black cherry notes with hints of sautéed herbs, damp soil and pencil lead. Medium-bodied and slightly thin in the mouth, it has a well-played chewy texture and nice freshness, finishing with an herbal lift.

Score: 85 - 87 Lisa Perotti-Brown MW, robertparker.com

This is a lovely St-Estèphe this year, firm and bright with bristling fruit right out of the gate - hugely unusual to see that this year. This is one of my favourites, and is totally charming with its cassis and damson fruit, but it's the juice and friendly tension that sets it apart. Silky and enjoyable. Buy.

Score: 93 Jane Anson, Decanter.com Maturity: 2025-2040

Prominent savory and tobacco notes lead to the core of crunchy pomegranate and black cherry fruit, with a lightly brisk finish.

Score: 87 - 90 James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

Tangy, almost salty, nose. Smooth, layered, very fine texture. Not hugely fruity but balanced with a long, elegant aftertaste following a relatively light mid palate. Longer than it is deep but attractive.

Score: 16 - 17 Julia Harding MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2024-2032

The 2017 Lafon-Rochet is wonderfully deep and fleshy, but in the mid-weight style that is typical of the year. Dark red and purplish fruit, lavender, licorice, spice and leather all flesh out in this attractive, if somewhat understated, wine from Lafon-Rochet. Silky tannins accompany the mid-weight finish nicely. The 2017 is a very pretty wine, although it is a touch light in this vintage. Tasted three times.

Score: 89 - 91 Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media.com

[Add to shopping basket] Meyney St Estephe £228 90-92 92-93 86-88 92 87-90 -
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The 2017 Meyney has a clean and fresh bouquet with blackberry and raspberry fruit mingling with cedar and light cigar humidor aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent, ripe tannin and a fine bead of acidity. I find this surprisingly juicy in style that probably belies the structure underneath. This will be one of the more approachable Saint-Estèphe wines in this vintage, but one that I find well made.

Score: 90 - 92 Neal Martin, Vinous Media.com Maturity: 2020-2035

This is very nicely done with a lithe yet structured core of dark fruit and round, juicy tannins. Medium to full body, a driven line of acidity and a long finish.

Score: 92 - 93 James Suckling, Jamessuckling.com

Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Meyney features baked cherries, mulberries and plum preserves on the nose with hints of smoked meats and black olives. The palate is medium-bodied, firm, grainy and a little tart with good fruit expression and length.

Score: 86 - 88 Lisa Perotti-Brown MW, robertparker.com

This is more proof of the consistency of Meyney. It has clear oak finessing, well held together with a cinnamon dusting and white pepper spicing, giving a gourmet edge with its own character. This feels finessed, contemporary and accomplished; a pretty complete package. This perhaps doesn't quite have the generosity of 2016, as the tannins are a little more tightly-drawn, but this is still good. Retasted several times and it stands out for its quality. Harvested 15 September to 5 October. Hubert de Boüard is consultant, with Anne Le Naour technical director.

Score: 92 Jane Anson, Decanter.com Maturity: 2024-2036

Lively, with a brambly feel throughout, while modest plum, black cherry, savory and warm stone notes run through. A touch rustic in feel.

Score: 87 - 90 James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

Deep cherry red with purple rim. A hint of savoury oak on the nose but plenty of black fruit to hold sway. An inviting and subtle dusty overlay. Pretty oaky on the palate – unusual in this vintage – but the char is quite definite. Just fresh enough but I hope it takes on more flesh before bottling. Tough and charry on the finish.

Score: 15 Julia Harding MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2025-2030

Two thousand seventeen is a very fine vintage for Meyney. A powerful, resonant Saint-Estèphe, the 2017 is endowed with striking aromatics that give the wine a bit more freshness than has been the case in some recent vintages. Dark red-toned fruit, leather, smoke and grilled herb overtones add nuance throughout. This is one of the finer recent vintages I have tasted from Meyney. Winemaker Anne Le Naour did a terrific job with the 2017. The blend is 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot, aged in 40% new barrels. Tasted three times.

Score: 89 - 92 Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media.com

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