En Primeur Bordeaux 2022

St Estephe - The wines with tasting notes


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[Add to shopping basket] Calon Segur St Estephe £610 6x75cl 94-96 95-96 96-98 94 91-93 97-99
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I tasted the 2022 Calon Ségur two times during my recent trip to Bordeaux. On both occasions it was forbiddingly tannic, much moreso than most wines of the year. Dark-toned fruit, gravel, cured meat, leather, spice and tobacco lend intensity, but the incisive nature of the tannins never settles down. Perhaps élevage will help. We will see. My impression is that the property really struggles in excessively hot years.

Score: 91 - 93 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2052

A very juicy red with redcurrant and creme de cassis as well as hints of nutmeg and cloves. It's full and polished with very pretty tannins that show length and focus. Traditional and typical for Calon with the tannin structure. A little closed today. But serious structure.

Score: 95 - 96 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

The 2022 Calon-Ségur is another superb wine from this historic Saint-Estèphe third growth that began a comprehensive renaissance the better part of a decade ago. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis and blackberries mingled with hints of fresh mint, burning embers, licorice and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with terrific depth at the core, supple tannins and a long, saline finish. The blend consists of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Vincent Millet observed that "when you tasted the Merlot, you were under the impression that you were tasting Cabernet."

Score: 96 - 98 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

This is powerful, underlining how much last year's more softly sculpted wine was a departure from recent vintages of Calon, and back in my mind to the complicated 2018 vintage, where it was overly marked by the heat of the vintage. This is full on concentrated fruit, with strong tannins that build through the palate. Plenty of complexity with black truffles, cassis, olive paste, sandalwood and fresh mint on the finish, along with cloves and cinnammon spice. 3.8ph, 100% new oak, 26hl/h yields. 53% Grand Vin, higher than usual. Vincent Millet technical director. Harvest September 6 to 27.

Score: 94 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2030-2046

The 2022 Calon-Ségur was cropped at 26hL/ha compared to 36hL/ha last year. Matured for 20 months in new oak, it has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, cedar and subtle tobacco scents. The 2022 is tight at first but opens with aeration (winemaker Vincent Millet remarked how the wine was much more expressive the week I tasted it in mid-April compared to the previous week). The palate is classically styled with impressive mid-palate depth. With strict tannins and multi-layered graphite-infused black fruit, this is reminiscent of some postwar Calon-Ségur's I have tasted. I wonder if slightly less vin de presse would have been better? Uncompromising, perhaps that might be its virtue, but it means that patience will be required.

Score: 94 - 96 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2027-2055

A wine that's going to flirt with perfection, the 2022 Château Calon Ségur is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, harvested between September 12 and 26, from yields of 40 hectoliters per hectare. Its deep purple hue is followed by a heavenly bouquet of cassis, smoke tobacco, flowery incense, and toasted spices. This ripe, sexy, full-bodied beauty has ultra-fine tannins, a layered, multi-dimensional mouthfeel, and a great finish. Its tannins, as well as its overall balance and purity, are just about off the charts, and this remarkable effort shows how successful the northern part of the Médoc was in 2022. Bravo!

Score: 97 - 99 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

[Add to shopping basket] Capbern St Estephe £115 6x75cl 90-92 92-93 90-92 91 - 94-96
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A firm and tight red with blackberry and currant character. Medium body. Bright and savory.

Score: 92 - 93 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

Notes of dark berries and cherries mingled with licorice and loamy soil introduce the 2022 Capbern, a medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy wine framed by ripe, powdery tannins and concluding with a long, somewhat heady finish. It's a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, picked between the 6th and 27th of September.

Score: 90 - 92 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

Attractive inky ruby colour, sculpted slightly heady iris flowers on the aromatics, opens to damson fruits, cocoa bean, liquorice root, slate, clear concentration and a flash of heat. Harvest began on September 6, earliest ever seen here, through to September 27. 26hl/h yields. 60% new oak.

Score: 91 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux

The 2022 Capbern was cropped at 26hL/ha between 6 and 27 September, a 20-day cuvaison and matured in 60% new oak for a planned 18 months. The Cabernet Sauvignon berries were tiny this year, which underlies why the Merlot comprises a higher percentage of the blend. It has an airy, floral bouquet with blackberries, wild strawberries and a touch of raspberry confit. There's an almost Pinot-like purity. The palate is medium-bodied with a grippy, peppery entry, full-bodied and muscular at the moment. I'm seeking a bit more grace here - perhaps this Saint-Estèphe is slightly over-revving on the finish?

Score: 90 - 92 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2027 - 2047

One of the more opulent, sexy wines in the vintage, the 2022 Château Capbern just about jumps out of the glass with its sweet red, blue, and black fruits as well as notions of chocolate, graphite, and leafy herbs. Full-bodied, concentrated, and textured on the palate, with ripe tannins, this stunning Saint-Estèphe is up there with the finest vintages I've tasted from this château.

Score: 94 - 96 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

[Add to shopping basket] Cos d'Estournel St Estephe £1,116 6x75cl 95-97 98-99 93-95 97 95-97 98-100
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The 2022 Cos d’Estournel is stunning. Rich and statuesque in bearing, the 2022 captures all the best this vintage had to offer. A wine of precision and power, the 2022 balances the intensity of the year but without veering into the realm of the exotic, as was the case in vintages such as 2005 and 2009. It marries ripeness and classical rigor in a style that is quite appealing. I imagine the 2022 will need a good 15-20 years to be at its finest. Harvest took place between September 7 and 23, exceptionally early.

Score: 95 - 97 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2052

Unique structure to this wine and very Cos with all the spices and dark fruits. Tobacco and cedar. It's starts off full-bodied and flavorful, but continues to unfold in an energetic and weightless way. Savory and primary. Al dente grapes here. Exciting and thought-provoking.

Score: 98 - 99 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

The 2022 Cos d'Estournel unwinds in the glass with aromas of sweet berries, plum liqueur and rich spices, followed by a full-bodied, broad-shouldered and muscular palate that's rich and structured, with a ripe core of fruit and chewy tannins. Harvest dates were relatively early this year, and maturation is occurring in only 50% new oak; yet the 2022's chunky, glass-staining style makes it Ducru Beaucaillou's only rival for the title of most extracted second growth of the Médoc.

Score: 93 - 95 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

Inky colour with violet edging, this is full of intense damson, incense, baked plum and black chocolate. A huge quantity of tannins but the texture is velvety, giving a creamy edge to the fruits, with contrast and freshness provided by orange zest and slate. Some of the old Merlot vines on gravel were picked early to tame them but generally the vineyard took the vintage in its stride, and almost 75% of production is in the 1st wine. Harvest September 7 to 23, 33hl/h yield, 90IPT, 50% new oak. Potential upscore in bottle.

Score: 97 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2032-2048

The 2022 Cos d'Estournel was picked from 7 to 23 September at 33hL/ha and is aged in 50% new oak (one cannot imagine that being countenanced 15-20 years ago). It has an overtly floral nose with wilted violets infusing the precocious yet controlled black fruit. There's fine delineation, impressive focus and energy. The palate is smooth and silky on the entry with pliant, sculpted tannins. The acidity is well judged (3.79pH) with white pepper and a graphite element toward the persistent finish. Quintessential Cos d'Estournel, this wine will mature for many years, although the jury's out on whether it will surpass triumphs like the 2016 or 2019/20.

Score: 95 - 97 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2032-2065

One of the finest wines to ever pass my lips, the 2022 Château Cos D'Estournel is a monument in the making. Based on 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, and 1% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this saturated ruby/purple-hued Saint-Estèphe offers a full-bodied, massive, opulent style as well as perfumed red, blue, and black fruits, ample spice, chocolate, graphite, and lead pencil-like aromatics, a stacked mid-palate, flawless balance, and a monster of a finish. An improved version of the 2009 (if that's possible), this is a legendary wine in the making. Hats off to Michel Reybier and technical director Dominique Arangoïts.

Score: 98 - 100 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

[Add to shopping basket] Dame de Montrose (2nd wine of Montrose) St Estephe £189 6x75cl 91-93 94-95 92-94 92 92-94 93-95
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The 2022 La Dame de Montrose is deep, pliant and rich. All of the intensity of this warm, very dry vintage comes through in the wine’s sheer size and ripe, dark profile. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, licorice, spice and espresso are all amplified in this decidedly intense, concentrated La Dame. Qualitatively, there is little question this could have easily been a Grand Vin in a preceding generation. The 2022 is a stunning La Dame.

Score: 92 - 94 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2042

Wonderful freshness and brightness to this with currants and red berries, as well as chocolate and hints of coffee. Full and layered with round tannins and a fresh and vivid finish. Lemon rind underneath it all. It has lots of length for being mostly merlot. 71% merlot, 23% cabernet sauvignon, 5% petit verdot, and 1% cabernet franc. From organically grown grapes.

Score: 94 - 95 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

A second wine that would embarrass numerous classified growths, the 2022 La Dame de Montrose unfurls in the glass with aromas of blackberries, violets, rose petals, charcoal and loamy soil, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy palate of striking concentration, energy and dimension. Seamless and complete, it's a blend of 71% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.

Score: 92 - 94 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

Higher proportion of Merlot than usual in the blend, this is deep ruby red in colour and opens to sandalwood, cedar, black pepper and rosemary notes, alongside ripe blackberry and creme de cassis fruits. A lucky vineyard located next to the river at one of the widest points of the Estuary, this is impactful and confident, with the fingerprints of the vintage. 31hl/h yield. 30% new oak.

Score: 92 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2027-2038

The 2022 La Dame de Montrose represents 43% of production this year and comes from Terrace 3 glacial deposits (the Grand Vin is on Terrace 4 that has more clay). It has a clean and pure bouquet with wild strawberry, boysenberry and light marmalade notes percolating through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a succulent entry, fine depth, slightly powdery texture. There is much more grip on the finish compared to the 2021 last year. Excellent.

Score: 91 - 93 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2026-2040

The second wine of Château Montrose, the 2022 La Dame De Montrose, tastes like a Grand Vin. More Merlot-dominated (71% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc), the terrific purity in its cassis and blue fruits give way to complex floral, forest floor, and violet aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, balanced, and elegant, I'd be happy to drink a bottle any time over the coming 15 years.

Score: 93 - 95 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

[Add to shopping basket] De Pez St Estephe £150 6x75cl 92-94 92-93 90-92 94 91-93 93-95
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The 2022 de Pez is a potent, brooding wine. Black cherry, gravel, incense, tobacco, menthol and scorched earth all run through this virile, imposing Saint-Estèphe. All the elements are impeccably balanced. The burly Pez tannins are present, of course, but there is also more than enough fruit. The 2022 could very well be the best Pez yet under the ownership of Roederer. Yields are down a whopping 50% because of hail. The blend is 59% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, which is more Merlot than the normal. There is no second wine this year. Tasted four times.

Score: 91 - 93 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2026-2037

Firm and linear red with a vivid and juicy dark-fruited core and fine, polished tannins. Medium-bodied. Mellow finish with some creaminess to it. Hints of crushed stones and walnut at the end.

Score: 92 - 93 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

From an estate that has now been fully restructured and which serves as something of a research and development laboratory for its sibling, Pichon Lalande, the 2022 de Pez exhibits aromas of sweet blackberries and cherries mingled with spices and violets. Medium to full-bodied, rich and lively, with powdery tannins that assert themselves on the youthfully chewy finish, some 40% of the production was lost to hail. For the first time, it will be sold en primeur via the place de Bordeaux.

Score: 90 - 92 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

Austerity is your friend in an En Primeur sample as long as there is juice and fruit, and here you have both things in abundance. Brilliant wine, absolutely one to look out for, has steely minerality that offsets the plump fruit character and intense tannic structure, this is concentrated but understated, everthing in proportion. First time on the Place this year, as before it was sold via an exclusivity. First vintage with new cellar also. Tasted twice, this is a buy. 26hl/h yield, half of usual, 50% new oak for ageing.

Score: 94 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2026-2042

The 2022 Château de Pez (limited to 18,000 bottles due to hail damage in June) has a very pure nose with something of a Burgundian allure: a mélange of blue and black fruit, wilted violet and graphite borrowed from down in Pauillac. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-chiseled tannins. Exquisite balance and poise, very harmonious with an intense yet paradoxically tender finish. Bon vin. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

Score: 92 - 94 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2055

From a château that consistently makes it into my personal cellar, the 2022 Château De Pez is terrific, with a floral, perfumed, complex style delivering ample cassis and riper black fruits, notes of chocolate, graphite, and licorice, full-bodied richness, ripe yet building tannins, and a great finish. Tasted on multiple occasions, it's a powerful wine from this team that stays beautifully balanced and elegant.

Score: 93 - 95 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

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