En Primeur Bordeaux 2011
St Estephe - The wines with tasting notes
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Appellation |
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| Calon Segur | St Estephe | £430 | £400 - £650 | 92-94 | 17-18 | - | - | 90-92 | 18 | ||
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The great Madame Denise Gasqueton, a Bordeaux icon whom I always visited early in the morning (8:15 a.m. for nearly 20 consecutive years), passed away on the first day of the 2011 harvest. The 2011 Calon-Segur is a fitting tribute to her extraordinary passion and love for this fabulous estate in the northern sector of St.-Estephe. A very strong effort (this property was untouched by the hail storm that swept through the area on September 1), it boasts an opaque purple color as well as surprisingly sweet tannin and abundant quantities of black cherry, black currant and dusty, loamy scents. Medium to full-bodied with beautifully integrated tannins and sensational purity and length, this super effort is a wonderful homage to the memory of Madame Gasqueton. Moreover, it is potentially one of the longest-lived wines of the vintage and should drink well for 25 or more years. Score: 92 - 94 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate Maturity: 2012-2037 We tasted this before the second wine, the Marquis de Calon. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot. Harvest ended on 21 September, which is usually when they start, but he wanted to retain the freshness of the fruit. Very careful and laborious selection from among the 200 different lots of press wine, 80-90% of which was Cabernet. 50% went into the grand vin. Rich, deep glowing cherry crimson. Lightly dusty but sweet and fragrant cassis. Just a touch of cedary freshness. Deep and smoothly textured and with an elegant overlay of freshness. No dry tannins here. Scented on the mid palate. Delicate, not typically St-Estèphe. Lively and full of fresh energy. Cool August brought delicacy and aromatic power to the Cabernet Sauvignon. Tender and fresh on the finish. So drinkable. Finesse and freshness all round. (JH) 13.3% Score: 17 - 18 Jancis Robinson MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2018-2035 A blend 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot and this includes the vin de presse. It has a refined bouquet of dark berries, wild hedgerow and a touch of rose petals, and seems lighter than the 2009 or 2010, although it displays fine delineation and sense of femininity. The palate is medium-bodied with a pleasing, rounded entry where the Merlot neatly fleshes out the Cabernet. It is not a complex Calon Segur, neither does it possess the spine-tingling backbone and tension of the 2010. But is has a satisfying purity and a lovely smooth, silky texture towards the finish and a minerally aftertaste that lingers longer than I expected. This may merit a higher score after bottling. Tasted April 2012. Score: 90 - 92 Neal Martin, erobertparker.com Wonderful purity and elegance. Fresh, fragrant and long with fine, silky tannins. Less opulence than the 2010 but analytically the same. Score: 18 Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2020-2035 The started picking at Calon on the 3rd September with the Merlot. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. This is well done and reminds me of the 1996 at this stage, which was excellent. Pretty aromas of spices, berry and earth follow through to a full body, with firm and silky tannins and a juicy finish. Very fresh. Score: 91 - 92 James Suckling, Jamessuckling.com |
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| Capbern Gasqueton | St Estephe | £130 | £120 - £140 | 85-87 | 16-17 | - | - | 87-89 | 16-17 | ||
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This seriously made, richly fruity, clean, earthy wine reveals light tannin as well as a spicy finish. It merits consumption during its first decade of life. Score: 85 - 87 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate Maturity: 2012-2022 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot. pH 3.75. Merlot did not have the finesse Millet wanted, hence lower proportion. They were a bit powerful for the finesse of the Cabernet Sauvignon. No hail at Capbern. Deep cherry crimson. Intense ripe cassis, and sweet red cherry on the palate. Touch of eucalyptus. Juicy and bright and fresh. Delicious. No hard edges. Juicy and full of bright fruit. Uncomplicated and charming. (JH) 13.2% Score: 16 - 17 Jancis Robinson MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2016-2023 A blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot, harvested from 5th September and finishing 19th September with the Cabernet, the Capbern Gasqueton has a simple bouquet of raspberry leaf, strawberry and a touch of mulberry fruit. There is a touch of hardness on the entry, although that will soften by the time of bottling. Good acidity, masculine, not quite as precise as the 2010 with a slight abrupt finish. This will be a medium-term drinking Capbern-Gasqueton. Tasted April 2012. Score: 87 - 89 Neal Martin, erobertparker.com Good depth of fruit, expressively classy wine with earthy length. Score: 16 - 17 Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2015-2024 Some pleasant fruit with a earthy, spicy finish. A little light. 74% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot. Score: 87 - 88 James Suckling, Jamessuckling.com |
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| Cos d'Estournel | St Estephe | £1200 | £800 - £1,200 | 90-92 | 17 | 92-94 | 90-93 | 93-95 | 18 | ||
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Because of a smaller than normal crop as well as the elimination of vineyard parcels devastated by the hail storm of September 1, production for Cos d’Estournel in 2011 is the smallest since 1991. Production for the 2011 Cos d’Estournel (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc that achieved 13.5% natural alcohol) is about 30% of their normal volume. An outstanding effort, this deep ruby/purple-colored wine exhibits notes of lead pencil shavings, black currants, boysenberries, cedar and earth. Made in a traditional style with more acidity and noticeable tannin than in recent years, this medium-bodied, pure 2011 should drink nicely for 15+ years. Score: 90 - 92 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate Maturity: 2012-2027 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Just 30% of the crop went into the grand vin. Inky with black core and bright dark purple rim. Stunning colour. A touch of raisiny fruit. Dry, powdery tannins but quite dense and very firm. Powerful but cool. Long - the length is more structure than flavour or aroma. Needs to take on flesh. A bit hard on the finish. (JH) 13.5% (17+ Points) Score: 17 Jancis Robinson MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2022-2035 A famed Second Growth and the leading estate in Saint Estephe, superbly situated adjacent to Lafite on the bend between Saint Estephe and Pauillac. Cos d'Estournel is a property that is constantly measuring itself against the First Growths in an effort to push quality even further, and with the vision of Jean-Guillaume Prats, Cos has achieved new heights with a superb run of vintages since 2001. The emphasis here is on detail and precision, in the vineyard and in the cellar where no expense has been spared; a a new modernist state-of-the-art chai opened in 2009, designed to use gravity flow to move the grapes and must, to minimise handling of the grapes and to allow each parcel to be vinified separately. The 2011 displays a nose of wild dark fruits, hints of mocha and ripe blackcurrants. Very structured palate with lots of freshness. Good length and a grippy finish. There are only 9000 cases produced due to the hailstorms that hit St Estephe and the severe selection made. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc Score: 92 - 94 Albany Vintners Lilac and violet aromas quickly give way to dark toasted spice and black tea notes, followed by remarkably creamy-textured cassis and plum compote flavors, all offset beautifully by a hint of bitter cherry and tamarind on the finish. There's a saturated feel that shows no hard edges. A touch languid rather than driven, but this wine tends to put on weight and gain greater focus as it ages. Tasted non-blind. Score: 90 - 93 James Molesworth, Wine Spectator A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc cropped at 36hl/ha, the 2011 has a pleasant, sedate bouquet that is well defined, perhaps missing a little tension and animation, but replete with succulent blackberry, cassis and violets aromas that render it light and feminine. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy, slightly furry tannins on the entry. The acidity it keen and citric, lending this more vigour than Montrose, whilst the finish has fine precision and length. Jean-Guillaume has fashioned a very fine Saint Estèphe for the vintage. Tasted April 2012. Score: 93 - 95 Neal Martin, erobertparker.com Rich blackcurrant fruit, slightly exotic Cos spiciness, structured smoothness and lovely elegant length. Score: 18 Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2017-2035 Very dense and structured with spices, currants and berries and an underlying spiciness. Full body, with chewy tannins and a fresh finish. Structured. Firm. Slightly hollow center palate. Excellent considering the difficulty St. Estephe had with hail and early harvesting. Score: 92 - 93 James Suckling, Jamessuckling.com |
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| Cos Labory | St Estephe | £225 | £160 - £200 | - | 17 | - | 85-88 | 84-86 | 16 | ||
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Black-hearted and inky. Unusual, rather floral nose with Asian spice. Fresh and supple and just a little malty on the palate but so much more lithe than most of the Pauillacs just tasted. Dry, powdery tannins but not drying. Actually relatively silky. (JH) Score: 17 Jancis Robinson MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2019-2030 The fruit that's there is fresh-good plum and bing cherry, with a savory herb edge as well. But it's a bit shy on the midpalate and loses intensity on the finish. Score: 85 - 88 James Molesworth, Wine Spectator The Cos-Labory has tended to be the whipping boy of Saint Estèphe in recent years, but I am pleased to say this has a better bouquet with clean black fruit and an almost Burgundian-like sense of minerality. The palate is medium-bodied with a grippy entry. It has good weight and ends rather dry on the finish. In the end, the palate does not quite meet the promise of the nose…but it is a start. Tasted April 2012. Score: 84 - 86 Neal Martin, erobertparker.com Plummy blackcurrant fruit and good balance and ripe tannins. Good medium term drinking. Score: 16 Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2015-2022 |
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| Dame de Montrose | St Estephe | £245 | £200 - £280 | 87-90 | 16-17 | - | - | 86-88 | 16 | ||
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The 2011 La Dame de Montrose also benefitted from a strict selection as well as top-notch winemaking. Composed of 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is a spicy, ripe 2011 with lots of fat as well as abundant notes of blueberries and black currants in addition to a sexy, open-knit, mid-weight personality. Drink this seductive effort over the next decade. The harvest at Montrose was held between September 2-27, and only a tiny parcel in the southern sector of the vineyard was touched by the hail storm that swept through the Pauillac / St.-Estephe border on September 1. Score: 87 - 90 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate Maturity: 2012-2022 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 72% Merlot. Creamy dark fruit. Lovely pure Cabernet fruit, fine and dark and very fresh. Fine and so smooth even with a big charge of tannin. Dense, fresh and creamy in the mouth. Powerful framework but not tough. (JH) 12.9% (16.5+ Points) Score: 16 - 17 Jancis Robinson MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2018-2030 The 2011 La Dame de Montrose is a blend of 72% Merlot and 27% Cabernet Franc. It displays fine minerality on the nose with good precision: blackberry, iodine and a touch of pencil lead. The palate is medium-bodied with a very tannic entry, gritty in the mouth with noticeable graphite and tertiary flavours. The back end is missing a little substance but the foursquare finish is satisfying. Fine. Tasted April 2012. Score: 86 - 88 Neal Martin, erobertparker.com Good depth and good clarity of fruit. A good minor Montrose. Score: 16 Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2014-2020 A little lean with spices and berries. Minerals too. Medium body, with fine tannins and a delicately fruity finish. Second wine of Montrose. 72% Merlot -- much more than normal. 28% Cabernet Sauvignon. Score: 88 - 89 James Suckling, Jamessuckling.com |
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