En Primeur Bordeaux 2022

Sauternes - The wines with tasting notes


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[Add to shopping basket] Climens Sauternes/Barsac £652 12x37.5cl 93-96 - - 93 - -
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Rich gold in colour, with intense crème caramel, apple tart, citron confit and apricot puree flavours, this has a silky texture and luscious appeal, low acidity, unusual for Climens, although a beautiful mint freshness gives a welcome cooling blash on the finish. 114g/l residual sugar, 4.1ph. 7.5hl/h yield. Harvest from October 6 to 23, spanning 9 days in total. New owner Jean-Hubert Moitry as of this vintage, with managing director Jerome Moitry. The winemaking team remains the same, overseen at least for now by Bérénice Lurton, and this En Primeur sample has been tasted the first time as a finished blend, not tasted direct from individual barrels as in the past.

Score: 93 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2023-2040

The 2022 Climens was tasted from a prepared sample, although the final blending has not been done - though it still represents around 95% of what will be the final wine. There were just two tries this vintage between 6 and 23 October, and there is 141g/L residual sugar. It has a fragrant bouquet with wild honey, peach skin and lemon curd, well-defined, though not as intense as previous vintages tasted at this stage. The palate is medium-bodied with a waxy/viscous opening and a fine bead of acidity, not tremendously deep but with fine delineation. With nougat, quince and almond notes, the 2022 is quite sweet and almost Riesling-like toward the finish that actually feels as if it has less than the aforementioned residual sugar level. This is a precise Climens.

Score: 93 - 96 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2058

[Add to shopping basket] Coutet Sauternes/Barsac £174 12x37.5cl - 93-94 - 92 - -
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Tempting dried fruit here with spice and floral character. Full and creamy with attractive acidity and a textural finish.

Score: 93 - 94 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

Luscious and sweet, sticky dates and crème caramel flavours, balanced by orange zest and lime. There is interest and contrast here, but even at this exceptional Barsac estate, owned by the Baly family, it is hard not to crave a little more lift.

Score: 92 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux

[Add to shopping basket] Doisy Daene Sauternes/Barsac £190 12x37.5cl 95-97 94-95 - 92 93-95 -
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The 2022 Doisy-Daëne is all class. Rich, layered and super-expressive. Dried flowers, coconut, chamomile, apricot and dried ginger all grace this deep, beautifully layered Barsac.

Score: 93 - 95 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2027-2047

Dried mangoes and persimmons with dried flowers and exotic spices. Full with vivid acidity and an attractive spicy edge. Long with beautiful fruit.

Score: 94 - 95 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

Pale gold in colour, with dried apricot, frangipane, honeysuckle and baked mirabelle plum, offset by a welcome bitter edge of rosemary that gives contrast. Rich in texture, this is luscious and intense. Dubourdieu family are the owners at this legendary Barsac estate, and the fact that even here the balance is challenging is a clear sign to me that there is an issue with freshness in the sweet wines this year. Ageing starts with 10 months in oak barrels, this is followed by 9 months in stainless steel tank before bottling. Tasted twice at different temperatures, and the key takeaway is that they need to be served cold to maximise the perception of acidity. I was a huge fan of this wine last year, and I would urge you to look out for the 2021 vintage to really capture the spirit of this excellent property.

Score: 92 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2023-2036

The 2022 Doisy-Daëne has an intense bouquet that blossoms in the glass: dried honey, quince and honeysuckle, with light saffron scents emerging with time. The palate is brimming with tension, razor-sharp acidity, quince and tangerine, leading to a slightly peachy, vivacious finish. What a wonderful "DD" from Jean-Jacques Dubourdieu.

Score: 95 - 97 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2027-2057

[Add to shopping basket] Doisy Vedrines Sauternes/Barsac £156 12x37.5cl - - - 93 - -
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Intense sunflower colour, with fig and dried apricot on the nose. The Castéja family have teased impressive freshness out of the richness of this wine, giving edges of lime zest to the silky, concentrated fruits and textures which are found in all the sweet wines in 2022. Harvest October 2 to 28, 4 selections, 8hl/h. There was no production in 2021 on this wine after the frost. Tasted twice.

Score: 93 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2023-2036

[Add to shopping basket] Lafaurie Peyraguey Sauternes/Barsac £360 12x37.5cl 95-97 99-100 - 91 89-91 -
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The 2022 Lafaurie-Peyraguey is bright and nicely focused. Citrus peel, grapefruit, white pepper and sage are some notes that grace this steely, crisp white.

Score: 89 - 91 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2027-2037

Another mind-blowing Sauternes with dense and concentrated fruit, and incredible depth and power. Spices galore. Very sweet. 260 grams residual sugar. Twice the normal year. French TBA? 95% semillon and 5% sauvignon blanc.

Score: 99 - 100 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

A wine that made me call the winemaker to better understand its composition and which, for better or worse, gives an insight into the conditions facing Sauternes in the vintage. This is 260g/l residual sugar, almost double what you can expect in a typical year, from a 10hl/h yield. Extremely luxurious and luscious, powerful concentration to the marmalade, smoked caramel, apricot puree, white truffle and ginger. It’s impressive, but the contrasting acidity and lift that you find in exceptional Sauternes vintages is conspicuously absent. Harvest October 24 to 27.

Score: 91 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2023-2036

The 2022 Lafaurie-Peyraguey has a very fragrant, floral bouquet with pure botrytised fruit, wonderful delineation and sense of mineralité. The palate is smooth and sensual, dried honey and quince, lightly spiced with a gentle crescendo on its polished and long finish. This is a very strong follow-up to the 2021.

Score: 95 - 97 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2052

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