En Primeur Bordeaux 2011

As in every other year, Bérénice Lurton offers a tasting of different barrels, representing different lots picked from different parcels on different dates - there were 14 lots in all. They are not ready to make the blend yet but tasting a selection of the possible components can give you some idea of the wine to come. Lurton explained that the heterogeneity of maturation was made more homogeneous by the effect of botrytis. Botrytis tends to hide the differences in ripeness but it can still be felt in the level of acidity. They started picking very early, on 8 September, though that first pass through the vineyard was partly a clean-up operation to remove any unhealthy berries. 80% of the harvest occurred 8-21 September and this fruit forms the heart of the wine this year. Main picking began on 12 September and finished on the 28th, with the development of botrytis fast and furious so that they had to bolster the picking team by an extra 50 on the weekend of 17/18 September. Since the grapes were so concentrated this year, they picked more 'golden berries' (ripe but not botrytised) to retain freshness and elegance and avoid overconcentration and heaviness. Yields were good overall (c 20 hl/ha, similar to 2010 and 2011), fermentations a little slower than average (generally about a month). Lot 6, picked on 15 September had quite a mineral streak with spice and terrific freshness. Lot 9 from 18 September was richer and denser with more barley sugar and orange flavours but still had great acidity. Lot 11, picked 20 September had fine tension and length - real elegance and subtle orange notes. Lot 12, from 21 September was dense and very very long. Lot 13, picked 26-28 September and therefore comprising some of the most concentrated berries but also some 'golden berries', resulting in a rich but very lively elixir. If these examples are anything to go by, this will be a very pure and elegant vintage with excellent freshness. My average score was 18. Drink dates are harder to predict but (having tasted some much older vintages here), I'd estimate 2021-2040+. (JH)

Score: 18 Jancis Robinson MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2021-2040+

Tasting through individual lots, I was struck by their purity and tautness, developing engaging floral aromas with aeration, with occasional notes of yellow plum and ginger. On the palate, once again there is a common theme of purity and crisp acidity, although they alternated between a lighter and a more mellifluous style. One or two significant lots demonstrated enticing spicy notes that define great Climens. There is certainly enormous potential here, one that beckons an intense, vivacious Barsac underpinned by freshness and focus. The 2011 was picked over five tries in two phases, the first from September 8 to the 21st representing a whopping 82% of the harvest over two tries; the second from September 26 until the 28th comprising over three smaller tries. Although the weather played a critical factor, Berenice Lurton attributed the success of her wine to her limestone soils.

Score: 95 - 97 Neal Martin, Wine Advocate

Fine, complex and elegant. Final blend under the deft guidance of Berenice Lurton will no doubt create another great vintage for Climens.

Score: 19 Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2021-2047

Slightly reductive note, and not very giving on the nose. Delicately fragrant lemon and apricot. Savoury/sour concentration lacking immediate appeal but has lovely depth of orange and apricot on the mid palate and lingers with a zesty, spicy freshness. A stayer. (JH)

Score: 17 Jancis Robinson MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2021-2035

This is really packed, with heather, golden raisin, dried pineapple, fresh white peach, quince and honey notes all woven beautifully together. The long, pure, singing finish has loads in reserve.

Score: 95 - 98 James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

To be honest, I expected the 2011 Coutet to come rushing out of the blocks like Doisy-Daene; however it is not playing that game. Instead, it is almost Zen-like upon first acquaintance before revealing its life-affirming mineral aromas and traces of apricot and white peach that remain very subtle and yet tangibly there. The palate is medium-bodied with exceptional balance. There is a real sense of synergy between component parts; nothing out of place, everything focused and succinctly composed, with its trademark sense of thrilling tension on the finish. This is sheer class and a classic Coutet to add to the canon of great recent vintages. Drink 2014-2035.

Score: 94 - 96 Neal Martin, Wine Advocate Maturity: 2014-2035

Great density and concentration with subdued acidity this year which is unusual for Coutet where one expects raciness. Rich, honeyed and unctuous. Fat and chunky right now but the depth and finish shows promise.

Score: 18 Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2024-2047

This white is thick and rich with lots of dried fruit character as well as spices. Full body, medium sweet and a spicy finish. Lovely intensity. Classy.

Score: 93 - 94 James Suckling, Jamessuckling.com

Pure tart citrus liveliness on the nose and creamy too. Mineral and a light spice. Powerfully rich and honeyed. Broad across the mouth but long, too. Orangey freshness on the long finish and a hint of marzipan. Freshness right to the very end. Concentrated and pure. (JH)

Score: 17 Jancis Robinson MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2021-2035

Very backward today, with viscous green plum, green almond, quince, pineapple, fig and pear notes still assimilating one another. The long, toasted almond- and ginger-filled finish has terrific depth.

Score: 95 - 98 James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

The aromatics on the Doisy-Daene comes racing out of the blocks like a March hare, soaring from the glass with honey, quince and lychee aromas with a sorbet like freshness and vivacity. The palate is supremely well balanced with a heightened level of tension and purity, offering delectable but subtle notes of white peach and apricot towards the beautifully composed, mineral-rich finish. Curiously, it reminds me of a top-flight Mosel Auslese, but what a fabulous Barsac from Denis Dubourdieu!

Score: 95 - 97 Neal Martin, Wine Advocate

True to house style, there is lifted flavours of intense marmalade and dried mango with refreshing acidity. Fantastic concentration, finely textured sweetness and excellent length.

Score: 18 - 19 Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2021-2047

A dense wine with honey, spice and butterscotch undertones. Full and very sweet. Turns spicy on the finish. Lots of botrytis character.

Score: 92 - 93 James Suckling, Jamessuckling.com

Oily lemon nose. Very sweet and relatively soft. Viscous but a bit flat on the finish.

Score: 16 Jancis Robinson MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2018-2026

A bright, almost chiseled style, offering fresh-cut pineapple, quince and candied Meyer lemon flavors, with a long, floral-filled finish. Seriously long, with lovely lacy detail already showing on the finish. Should be long-lived.

Score: 94 - 97 James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

The 2011 Doisy-Vedrines has a far more taciturn bouquet than the Doisy-Daene, offering its trademark tropical, peachy aromas that will hopefully develop more delineation throughout its maturation. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous entry. There are attractive spicy notes and a satisfying build in the mouth towards its botrytis-rich, tropical finish, although on this occasion I find it needing more tension to merit a higher score. Drink 2014-2030.

Score: 90 - 92 Neal Martin, Wine Advocate Maturity: 2014-2030

Perfect combination of generous flavours, lifted aromatics and freshness. Despite its power, the palate feels fresh and lively, ready for another sip. 150g per litre residual sugar with nearly 14% alcohol! Very successful vintage that is denser and sweeter than the 2009.

Score: 18 Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2025-2047

Mid to deep gold. Not terribly expressive at first and a touch oily on the nose. Ripe, ripe citrus verging on pineapple but freshness of pears and lemon marmalade too. Generous in the middle and a juicy fresh finish. Excellent concentration but an arrow of freshness too. (JH)

Score: 17 Jancis Robinson MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2018-2030

Still quite raw, with loads of apricot, ginger, green plum, date and papaya flavors that are not yet melded together. Shows ample toasted almond and honey notes on the finish, with terrific depth and power. Very long. There's loads here, but this has a long way to go.

Score: 94 - 97 James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

The 2011 de Fargues has a delicate, perhaps slightly more malic bouquet than I was expecting. At present, it is a little more disjointed than its peers although I am sure it will become more cohesive throughout its maturation. The palate shows its true potential: medium-bodied with great tension on the spice-tinged entry. It is cohesive and mellifluous, although at present it does not have the depth or weight of a top flight de Fargues. However, it is precise and beautifully defined on the finish. Drink 2015-2030+.

Score: 93 - 95 Neal Martin, Wine Advocate Maturity: 2015-2030+

Great density and unctuous texture that is classic Fargues. Generous, full-bodied, with layers of flavours ranging from dried apricots to sweet honeysuckle and marmalade. Very long, layered and beautifully made.

Score: 18 - 19 Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2025-2047