En Primeur Bordeaux 2022

Graves - The wines with tasting notes


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[Add to waiting list] Carmes Haut Brion Pessac-Leognan £820 6x75cl Sold Out 96-98 97-98 99-100 96 98-100 98-100
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Technical Director Guillaume Pouthier follows his majestic 2020 with another riveting wine. The 2022 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is, quite simply, unforgettable. A wine of tremendous energy, the 2022 saturates the palate with inky red/blue fruits, lavender, sage and mint, showing remarkable density that builds into an eternal finish enshrouded by seamless tannins. The 2022 is a co-ferment of 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot done with 70% stems that saw six full weeks on the skins. Élevage is 70% new oak, 20% 18HL cask and 10% amphora. It is an incredibly modern wine that marries Bordeaux classicism with hints of Northern Rhône and Piedmont inflections. All the elements are so well-balanced that nothing sticks out. Instead, it is the wine's profound beauty that leaves a lasting impression.

Score: 98 - 100 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2062

This is so umami with sea urchin character that gives you sea salt and dried seaweed aromas and flavors. The integrity and richness is so impressive with an exotic character, yet it is so classic and fine in structure. 13.5% alcohol. 70% whole cluster fermentation. 40% cabernet franc, 35% cabernet sauvignon and 25% merlot. A new model for Bordeaux?

Score: 97 - 98 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

The remarkable 2022 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a strong candidate for the title of wine of the vintage. It's also one of the most singular, characterful wines being produced in the region today. Unfurling in the glass with complex aromas of blackberries and cherries mingled with notions of exotic spices, orange zest, pencil lead, rose petals and vine smoke, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a velvety attack that segues into a layered, seamless and multidimensional mid-palate framed by rich, powdery tannins. Pure, perfumed and penetrating, this blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot is a brilliant success that caps a decade of relentless work by Guillaume Pouthier and his team that have seen Les Carmes Haut-Brion emerge as one of Bordeaux's leading estates. It checks in at a mere 13.5% alcohol, with a very healthy pH of 3.64. YC

Score: 99 - 100 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

This is a truly delicious Pessac Léognan that shows just how much Carmes Haut-Brion sets itself apart, showing grip and stretching out through the palate. Don't expect the same character as you are going to find elsewhere in this vintage. Fragrant aromatics, roses, violets, crushed rocks, fennel, aniseed, with texture and tannic heft. Fresh dark fruits, edges of bitter Bendick mints, smoked caramel, slate. 70% whole bunch, no irrigation, cover crops intead on the clay limestone soils (when picked the grapes were at 14.4%, came down to 13.5% after vinification with use of stems and specific yeast). 40hl/h yields, 70% new oak, 3.6ph.

Score: 96 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2030-2050

The 2022 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was picked 5-20 September with 70% whole bunches (three vats contained 100% whole cluster that was cofermented), matured in 70% new oak, 20% in 18hL casks and 10% in amphora. It underwent a long, six-week infusion in the vat at a maximum 26° Celsius, just over a week longer than usual. It is extremely precise on the nose with blackberry, briary, crushed stone and hints of curry leaf. The palate is just beautiful. Sculpted tannins, fine-boned, lending this Les Carmes unerring symmetry and focus. This is loaded with mineral-laden dark berry fruit and feels seamless toward the finish. I am not inclined toward hyperbole, nevertheless, this is the best Les Carmes that Guillaume Pouthier has overseen.

Score: 96 - 98 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2070

I think one of the legendary wines in the vintage will be the 2022 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, which comes from a tiny vineyard not far from Haut-Brion and is based on 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Merlot, vinified with 70% whole clusters, and aged 70% in new barrels, 20% in foudre, and 10% in amphora. Despite mostly being not destemmed, you wouldn't know it by tasting it. It has a classic bouquet of ripe blackberries, cassis, leafy herbs, graphite, and violets, while in contrast, the C Des Carmes Haut-Brion, which is vinified with just 30% stems, is clearly marked more by its stems. Full-bodied, concentrated, beautifully balanced, and with a rare mix of purity, freshness, and power, it's going to rival the 2018 as one of the finest vintages ever produced from this address. It's worth noting this estate has a unique terroir in Pessac that includes some limestone in the soils, and this worked particularly well in 2022. Don't miss this wine.

Score: 98 - 100 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

[Add to shopping basket] Chapelle de la Mission (2nd wine of Mission Haut Brion) Pessac-Leognan £396 6x75cl 90-92 94-95 90-92 92 91-93 91-93
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The 2022 La Chapelle de La Mission Haut Brion is a powerful, dense wine, almost shockingly so. Gravel, spice, leather, menthol and dried flowers give the 2022 tons of aromatic presence to play off a core of dark, red-toned fruit. I don’t recall tasting a Chapelle with this much tannin in recent times, going back to the 2010. Readers will find a wine that delivers immense pleasure, though and tons of character.

Score: 91 - 93 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2027-2042

Really fresh and linear with graphite, tar, berry and stone aromas and flavors. Medium and fine on the palate showing no heat or over-maturity. Attractive tannins at the end. 55.9% merlot, 35.4% cabernet sauvignon and 8.7% cabernet franc.

Score: 94 - 95 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

A blend of 55.9% Merlot, 35.4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8.7% Cabernet Franc, the 2022 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion offers aromas of dark berries, licorice, graphite, bell pepper and pencil shavings. It’s medium to full-bodied, fleshy and nicely balanced with a tense, fresh and penetrating finish.

Score: 90 - 92 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

Powerful damson colour, with cloves, incense, dried roses, liquorice root, rosemary and waves of raspberry and damson fruit. Firm tannic architecture, silky in texture. One of the lower alcohols in years at these estates, mainly due to some blockages during the growing season, even with small amounts of irrigation of vines between 3 and 7 years old. No leaf removal during growing season, careful soil work, fascinating to see the evolution of this estate as it deals with the changing climate, under the spotlight of being one of the highest profile names in Bordeaux.

Score: 92 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2028-2040

The 2022 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion, aged in 40% new oak, has a fragrant bouquet with red cherries and crushed strawberry, well-defined and elegant. The palate is medium-bodied with tarry black fruit, slightly powdery in texture with a pert, saline finish. Very composed with a touch of dark chocolate on the aftertaste. It should give 12 to 15 years of drinking pleasure.

Score: 90 - 92 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2026-2038

The 2022 La Chapelle De La Mission Haut-Brion is based on 56% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc. A red and black-fruited, forward, beautifully textured second wine, it’s medium to full-bodied and offers ripe red and black fruits, notes of leafy herbs, flowers, and scorched earth, supple tannins, and outstanding length.

Score: 91 - 93 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

[Add to shopping basket] Domaine de Chevalier Rouge Pessac-Leognan £340 6x75cl 95-97 98-99 94-96 96 93-96 96-98
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The 2022 Domaine de Chevalier is a powerhouse. I don’t remember tasting anything like it. Black cherry, plum, graphite, licorice and spic add to an impression of virile intensity. Readers should expect to play the long game, as the tannins are pretty imposing at this stage. That has been the case each of the four times I have tasted the 2022 so far.

Score: 93 - 96 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2052

Wow. This is incredibly structured and powerful with ultra-fine tannins that are tight and layered. It’s full and powerful with carved muscles of tannins. This will need so much time.

Score: 98 - 99 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, the 2022 Domaine de Chevalier delivers aromas of minty dark berries, cherries and ripe plums mingled with hints of licorice, coniferous forest and spices. Medium to full-bodied, it’s concentrated and layered, textured and elegant, framed by powdery tannins and concluding with a long, penetrating, long finish. Olivier Bernard and his team have crafted an outstanding wine that will bear a special label commemorating his 40th vinification at this Péssac-Léognan reference point. YC

Score: 94 - 96 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

Showing how it's done in 2022, Domaine de Chevalier comes in strong with a deep ruby red colour, a vibrant rim, smoked oak on the nose, edges of tar, red roses, liquorice root, and a confident delivery of full-on tannic architecture that frames the cassis and bilberry fruit. Delivers vintage signature in a carefully controlled way, with enough slate, pummice stone, mint and eucalyptus to balance things out and slow down delivery. The fruits are fully ripe, heading towards baked plum and fig, but met step by step with a corresponding cooling flavour. 40th harvest of Olivier Bernard (meaning a special label).

Score: 96 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2030-2048

The 2022 Domaine de Chevalier was picked from 5-30 September and represents the 40th vintage under the irrepressible Olivier Bernard, who celebrates with a one-off label. It soars from the glass with take-no-prisoner aromatics: perfumed mineral-rich red berry fruit, incense and black truffle. Pessac-like earthiness with an opposing airiness defines many a great wine from this estate. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins. Slightly powdery in texture and saline in the mouth, this gets the saliva flowing. However, the arching structure on the finish suggests it will require considerable bottle age. Cellar this for a couple of decades, and you'll be repaid handsomely. 14% alcohol.

Score: 95 - 97 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2034-2075

As to the Grand Vin 2022 Domaine De Chevalier, this awesome Graves is based on 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and the rest Cabernet Franc. Vinified in a mix of concrete and wood tanks, with a portion seeing malolactic fermentation in barrel, it offers a deep purple/ruby hue as well as a brilliant bouquet of crème de cassis, graphite, smoke tobacco, and damp earth. Reminding me of a supercharged version of the 2016, it's full-bodied and has a layered, silky mouthfeel, beautiful tannins, and a great finish. Released with a new, one-off label, the 2022 celebrates Olivier Bernard's 40th year at the château, and it's certainly a wine worth seeking out.

Score: 96 - 98 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

[Add to shopping basket] Fieuzal Rouge Pessac-Leognan £169 6x75cl - 94-95 94-96 - - 92-94
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A crunchy and energetic wine from here this year with black berry, black cherry and crushed stone character. Medium-bodied with lively acidity and a fine tannin background.

Score: 94 - 95 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

The cumulative rainfall at Château Fieuzal was only 385 millimeters in 2022, compared to 753 millimeters in 2021 and 743 millimeters in 2020. But this did not prevent Stephen Carrier and his team from making a fresh and energetic 2022 de Fieuzal, bursting with aromas of violet, iris, menthol and crunchy wild berries mingled with hints of coniferous forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, it's pristinely balanced and beautifully layered, exhibiting a vibrant palate that's deep, tensile and elegant, concluding with a mouthwateringly mineral finish. This estate is achieving things no one would have thought possible a decade ago. YC

Score: 94 - 96 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

The 2022 Château De Fieuzal is brilliant, and this estate deserves more attention in the market today. Ripe red and black fruits, spring flowers, leafy tobacco, and loamy earth all emerge on the nose, and it's medium to full-bodied, with a supple, layered, elegant mouthfeel and a great finish. I love its overall balance, and this could be a real superstar in the vintage.

Score: 92 - 94 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

[Add to shopping basket] Haut Bailly Pessac-Leognan £720 6x75cl 96-98 97-98 94-96 97 93-96 98-100
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The 2022 Haut-Bailly is dark and quite brooding in bearing. The natural intensity of small grapes comes through in the wine’s dark fruit and firm, imposing tannins. Black cherry, gravel, cloves, cured meats, licorice, incense and charcoal embers add to an impression of virile thrust. I imagine the 2022 will take some time to come together, as the tannins are pretty forbidding at this stage.

Score: 93 - 96 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2052

Incredible complexity of aromas here with ripe currants and blackberries, but also dried flowers like violets and roses. Then there’s forest flower character such as bark, mushroom and sandalwood. Black truffles. Full-bodied with tight and chewy tannins that are polished and pure, with a solid and tight finish. It builds on your palate and frames the wine beautifully. 56% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot, 5% petit verdot and 2% cabernet franc.

Score: 97 - 98 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

The 2022 Haut-Bailly offers up aromas of dark berries complemented by accents of iris, lilac, rose petals, graphite and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, dense and concentrated, dense, it's layered and textural, with a deep core of fruit, powdery tannins and a penetrating, saline finish. Vinified along traditional lines, it is a structured wine that will take some time to hit its stride, but at this early stage it appears suppler and more seamless than its 2020 and 2019 predecessors. A blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc from grapes picked from September 7 to 27, it's maturing half in new barriques and half in one- or two-year-old barrels. (YC)

Score: 94 - 96 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

Stunning aromatics, with crushed roses and fragrant spice, edges of incense and gunsmoke. On the palate the fruits are intense cassis and bilberry, dusted with cocoa and liquorice root , and shot through with gentle acidities of pomegrante, mandarin peel, saffran and slate. Concentrated dark rosemary on the finish, this is so well judged, effortlessly impressive, a little atypical of Haut-Bailly in that there is less austerity to the tannic architecture than in the more understated vintages but it captures the finessed heart of the property, and will age for decades. 3.92ph, Axel Marchal consultant. 50% of the vines here are over 50 years or 60 years old, helping them withstand the heat. 30hl/h yields, 2nd vintage in the new cellar.

Score: 97 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2030-2048

The 2022 Haut-Bailly was picked between 7 and 27 September and underwent a four-week cuvaison, taking longer to consume the sugar and was matured in 50% new oak. It has a bouquet that compels you just to sit and contemplate. It gradually unfolds with blackberry, raspberry, potpourri and iris flower scents, well-defined, not showy but suave. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. Minerals, black pepper and clove off a gentle grip with an impressive crescendo. It will need a decade in bottle. This Haut-Bailly has a haunting beauty, the kind of wine that will bring people to tears!

Score: 96 - 98 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2033-2065

The 2022 Château Haut-Bailly is going to be one of the legendary vintages at this château, and it should be a no-brainer purchase for readers. Based on 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, and the rest Cabernet Franc, it has an incredible perfume of cassis, ripe black cherries, crushed stone, smoke tobacco, and wood smoke. Earning more than a few expletives in my notes, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a deep, layered, multi-dimensional mouthfeel, and ultra-fine, silky tannins. Hold onto your hats, ladies and gentlemen, this is an incredible wine in the making!

Score: 98 - 100 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

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