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Mission Haut Brion 1990

Pessac-Leognan, Grand Cru Classé

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Tasting Notes

Reminiscing over the 1989 and 1990 vintages, which I have followed from birth, there always seemed to be a dramatic difference in quality. Not that the 1990 was not a top wine, but in its infancy, I never thought it would come close to being as riveting and magnetic as its older sibling, the 1989. However, it has proven to be nearly as prodigious. One of the hottest years in Bordeaux, 1990, a vintage of enormous yields, even dwarfing yields in 1985 and 1982, produced a fabulously open-knit, seemingly fast track La Mission that, at age 22, shows no signs of fading or losing its grip. The color is slightly more mature and evolved than the 1989’s, exhibiting a lighter rim and a less dark blue/ruby/purple hue. Classic La Mission-Haut-Brion aromatics of camphor, licorice, scorched earth, hot bricks, barbecue, cassis, blueberry and kirsch are well displayed. Broad, expansive, velvety-textured and opulent with high glycerin and perhaps slightly higher alcohol (I don’t have the statistics to verify that), the 1990 is as delicious and open-knit as the 1989, with less density and possibly less potential longevity. Most 1990s have been quick to reach full maturity, and as brilliant as they can be, they need to be monitored carefully by owners. Currently in late adolescence, but close to full maturity, the 1990 should hold in a cold cellar for another 15-20 years. However, it is a fabulous wine to inspect, taste and consume, so why wait?

Score: 99

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Maturity: 2012-2032 01 August 2012

Much like its nearby rival, Haut Brion, the 1990 La Mission has always been relatively evolved, complex, and supple-textured. Even at age 3-4 it performed beautifully. The tannins are sweet, the acidity low, and the high levels of glycerin and concentrated fruit have always been present, and they show no signs of abating. A dark plum/blue/garnet color is followed by a sweet perfume of chocolate, rich, jammy, berry fruit, and hints of smoked herbs as well as meat juices. It remains a full-bodied, opulent, even ostentatious wine that should drink beautifully for two more decades. It really has not changed much over the last 6-7 years. Release price: ($1200.00/case)

Score: 96

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Maturity: n/a 30 June 2009

Surprisingly, the 1990 La Mission-Haut-Brion performed nearly as well as the 1989. Three of the tasters in the group of seven who participated in this blind tasting rated it higher than the 1989. I make this point because I think the 1990 is improving in the bottle, similar to the evolution of the 1990 Haut-Brion. The 1990 La Mission performed well-above my original score of 92. The wine is ostentatious, with a sweet, spicy, cedary, fruitcake, roasted black fruit-scented nose, admirable richness, a juicy, succulent, voluptuous texture, gobs of fruit and glycerin, low acidity, and a full-bodied, layered finish. This splendidly chewy, intense La Mission-Haut-Brion will come close to matching the quality of the legendary 1989. It will continue to drink well for another two decades.

Score: 94

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Maturity: 1997-2017 01 February 1997