Canon La Gaffeliere 2009

St Emilion, Grand Cru Classé

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Tasting Notes

An intriguing blend of nearly 50% Merlot, a whopping 35% Cabernet Franc and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (a somewhat unusual combination for this region), the 2009 reminds me of the 1990. A big, inky/purple-tinged wine with just over 14% natural alcohol, it exhibits exotic, flamboyant aromas of espresso roast, incense, sweet black cherries, black currants, licorice, asphalt, barbecue smoke, Christmas fruitcake and herbs. Full-bodied with silky tannins, luscious fruit, a hedonistic yet complex personality, low acidity, noticeable tannin and enviable purity, this head-turning beauty can be enjoyed over the next 15-20 years. This has been one of my favorite St.-Emilions since the late 1980s, when proprietor Stefan Neipperg began to resurrect this once moribund estate that made so many mediocre wines in the 1960s, 1970s and early 1980s (the 1982 was shameful). It is one of hundreds of examples of properties that have been returned to life, providing Bordeaux with greater quality, diversity and recognition than it has ever had in its long history.

Score: 95

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Maturity: 2012-2032 01 March 2012

Proprietor Stephan von Neipperg has made so many terrific wines at this estate since the late 1980s, it’s hard to say that the 2009 is going to turn out to be the finest, but did it show well on the four separate times I tasted it! A final blend of 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc, and a whopping 10% Cabernet Sauvignon (somewhat unusual for this area of St.-Emilion), the natural alcohol was 14%. Stephane Derenoncourt is the long-time wine consultant at all of Stephan von Neipperg’s estates. Yields were shockingly low here, 28 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine is a beauty of both elegance and power. Dark ruby/purple, with notes of incense, sweet cedar, black cherry jam, cassis, and blackberry as well as licorice and subtle smoke, this wine has superb texture, a full-bodied mouthfeel, stunning concentration, and not a hard edge to be found. It is one of those remarkable 2009s with amazing power and density, but also tremendous finesse, precision, and freshness, an anomaly in itself. This wine should drink well for 15-20 years, based on the fact that the 1990, a vintage far lower in acidity and not nearly as concentrated, is still at the top of its game. Bravo! (Tasted four times.)

Score: 94 - 96

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Maturity: 2010-30 01 April 2010

Porcini mushrooms, with dark and ripe fruits. Turns to licorice and violets. Full body, with round and soft tannins and a long delicious finish. The texture is gorgeous. So much going on in the glass. Try after 2018.

Score: 97

James Suckling, - Maturity: 2018+ 15 February 2012

The Cabernet Franc really comes out here, with roasted berry, coffee bean and citrus following through to blackberry. Full-bodied, with fabulous concentration of fruit and supersoft tannins, a long, long finish. This is so juicy and wonderful. No dry tannins here.

Score: 94 - 97

James Suckling, Wine Spectator 01 April 2010

Mid to dark crimson. Treacle toffee on the nose. More opulent and obviously riper than the 2010. That smudgy velvety low-acid thing. Just a bit too sweet? Violet cachous. More freshness please!

Score: 16 - 17

Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com Maturity: 2015-2023 12 May 2011

Blackish crimson. Fragrant, even lightly soapy. Well integrated and relaxed. Fine boned. More acdity on the finish than one might expect so not super-stunning but pretty good. Some might find this eviscerated. I think it’s quite elegant.

Score: 17

Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com Maturity: 2015-2025 30 March 2010

Tasted at Canon-la-Gaffeliere, cropped between 1st and 10th October at 34hl/ha, this is a blend of 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, matured in 90% new oak, the bouquet takes a great deal of coaxing from the glass, reluctantly offereing blackberry, raspberry coulis, a scent of wet clay and mulberry. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, off-dry, good weight in the mouth and fine definition, perhaps a little more austere than I anticipated but I like that (the coolness of the sample accentuating the tannins here.) A touch of savoury fruit towards the grainy finish, very good length and harmony, the pH plays a fundamental role in balancing the finish and engendering such freshness. Excellent. Tasted March 2010.

Score: 93 - 95

Neal Martin, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com 21 April 2010

55M 35CF 10CS. Opulent red fruit nose with strawberries and cherries. Very big and bold with voluptuous, creamy tannins. Just slips up a little on the (rather drying) finish.

Score: 92 - 95

Albany Vintners, - 01 April 2010