Bollinger Blanc de Noirs Cote Aux Enfants Grand Cru Ay 2014

While one is unlikely—if not hard-pressed—to find complaints with the 2014 Blanc de Noirs La Côte aux Enfants when enjoyed on its own, it does appear somewhat less harmonious when set against the 2015 and 2013 vintages. Disgorged in February 2024 with a dosage of six grams per liter, it opens from the glass with aromas of ripe pear, beeswax and orange zest. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, vinous and incisive, with an elegantly fleshy core of fruit supported by bright acidity. Lacking both the maturity of vintages such as 2015 and 2012 and the purity of 2013, the 2014 currently seems slightly overshadowed. That said, I wouldn’t be surprised if it gains cohesion and depth with further bottle age—in which case, my current score may ultimately prove conservative. As always, the fruit hails from the northwest-facing sector of a vineyard in Aÿ, this time achieving 10.7% potential alcohol prior to harvest. Pinot Noir has long been at the heart of Bollinger’s identity, accounting for approximately 60% of their vineyard holdings. Yet, excluding the small-scale Vieilles Vignes Françaises, it was only in recent years that the house began to bottle Pinot Noir on its own. This shift began with the introduction of their non-vintage PN series—Champagnes that vary in composition from year to year—followed by a single-vineyard (lieu-dit) bottling from La Côte aux Enfants. Contrary to some misconceptions, La Côte aux Enfants today is not solely dedicated to Champagne production: still red wine under the Coteaux Champenois designation continues to be made from this site. However, it’s important to distinguish between the two: the Coteaux Champenois is crafted from grapes grown on the vineyard’s south-facing slope, whereas the fruit destined for Champagne comes from the northwest-facing side. (Kristaps Karklins)

Score: 95

Wine Advocate, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Maturity: 2026-2041 03 July 2025