Balocchi Di Colore Collection Case 2020

Bibi Graetz

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Tasting Notes

Balocchi di Colore No 8 - One of three new single-vineyard wines from Bibi Graetz; this is 100% Canaiolo from the most recently acquired, 12ha high-elevation vineyard plot in Olmo, from vines between 25 and 50 years old on sandy-clay loam soils full of galestro. No 8 refers to the terroir parcel with Bibi's eight year old son Ludovico creating the label. Grapes are sorted twice before they are destemmed, softly pressed and placed in open-top barriques. Spontaneous fermentation occurs via indigenous yeasts after which the wine is moved into old barriques up to 20 years old for malolactic fermentation and ageing for two years before being bottled. Gentle, light and joyful, this wine has an almost aerial quality in its presentation, a crystalline purity to the fruit profile and overall uber charm. The nose is a masterclass in aromatics comprising patchouli, wild strawberries, dried wood and flowers, baked and sour cherries, green pepper and roses. Sharp, sleek and straight on the palate but delivered with energy and excitement. Each individual element is so detailed and precise with mouthcoating tannins that give the frame, angles and structure while the bright, high acidity gives a sense of liveliness and purity. The length and freshness are incredible and it's a wine that just makes you smile. An extremely engaging and drinkable wine.

Score: 98

Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2023 - 2045 28 February 2023

Balocchi di Colore No 3 - One of three new single-vineyard wines from Bibi Graetz; this is 100% Colorino from vines of up to 50 years old, planted in the family's historical vineyard in Vincigliata on clay loam soils with galestro at an altitude of 250m. No 3 refers to the third vineyard planted in the 1970s when Bibi's parents were looking for blending grapes to add power and structure to their Chianti wines. The label was designed by Bibi's third daughter Ingrid. Grapes are sorted twice before they are destemmed, softly pressed and placed in open-top barriques. Spontaneous fermentation occurs via indigenous yeasts after which the wine is moved into old barriques up to 20 years old for malolactic fermentation and ageing for two years before being bottled. Rather than give this over to a blend, Bibi has, over the years, kept back a portion of Colorino to let it shine on its own and this new bottling is remarkable. A much darker colour than the other two new releases, this is dark violet with scarlet nuances, translucent but almost dark plum in colour which correlates to the aromatic profile - a spicy hoisin plum element, with white and Szechuan pepper, blueberries, graphite, salty minerality and herbal scents. Wide and round on the palate, ample, generous, broad and muscular but so velvety with fine-grained tannins that fill the mouth entirely giving the expansive frame while the centre is filled by a moreish juicy acidity that gives the bounce and the fun. There is both power and tension which combine to a thrilling and captivating whole. A knock-out wine that deserves to be shared among friends.

Score: 97

Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2023 - 2040 28 February 2023

Balocchi di Colore No 1 - One of three new single-vineyard wines from Bibi Graetz; this is a selection of the oldest Sangiovese vines on clay loam with galestro soils at an altitude of 250m in Vincigliata, home to the family's historical vineyard. No 1 refers to the first vineyard planted, comprising vines more than 50 years old, and features a label designed by Bibi's first daughter Margherita. Grapes are sorted twice before being destemmed, softly pressed and placed in open-top barriques. Spontaneous fermentation occurs with indigenous yeasts before the wine is moved into old barriques up to 20 years old for malolactic fermentation and ageing for two years before being bottled. An incredibly compelling and inspiring wine with a flawless aromatic complexity - a nose full of strawberries, violets, roses, milk chocolate, lavender, coffee, cherries, cinnamon and exotic spices - beautiful scents that put you squarely in Tuscany. A scintillating texture follows on the palate, thrilling with such liveliness, energy and poise. Finessed, but completely characterful, the tannins gliding the fruit flavours seamlessly from start to finish with such sleek, effortless forward motion. A hint of succulent sweetness comes from stewed strawberries alongside perfumed flowers and dried herbal accents. Layered and pixelated, it's intense in its complexity but graceful with freshness throughout. Such a pure expression of time, place and grape - honest and profound. I love it.

Score: 99

Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2023 - 2053 28 February 2023

Bright and lively on the palate, such beautifully expressed raspberry and red cherry fruit flavours alongside high-shining acidity that is so clean and precise. A supremely joyful expression with hints of caramelised strawberries and fresh mint. So sharp but so well defined with a clarity to the palate that is gorgeous. Really delivers a sophisticated, charming, characterful wine that is balanced, easy to enjoy with plenty of life. A more structured and perhaps harder to understand wine than Testamatta this year, but both have their own lovely personalities. This is so complete and abundant, muscular but controlled and full of complexity and detail - there's weight and density without heaviness. A sensational wine. Ageing 12 months in 500l French oak barrels.

Score: 98

Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2025 - 2040 24 August 2022