Saint Aubin La Chateniere 1er Cru 2018

55-year-old vines. One of the first sectors of St-Aubin to be planted with Chardonnay instead of Pinot. This is unusual in St-Aubin because it is steep and south-west facing, very calcareous and has very little wind. In tank since August, settling for bottling in December, as are all his Pernands and all the St-Aubins. Tank sample. More chalk and flint here but tangled up with creamy and mealy gentleness, even a little savoury. Chewy but smooth and savoury on the palate too, with a lot of texture so that the core of citrus is cloaked by the structure. Lightly smoky. (JH)

Score: 17

Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com Maturity: 2023-2028 21 November 2019