Meursault 2017

The 2017 Meursault Village is lovely, offering up appealing aromas of crisp peach, pear, lemon, white flowers and a touch of praline. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with excellent cut and tension that belies its seductively textural attack. The 2017 vintage is an excellent year for Domaine des Comtes Lafon, where Dominique Lafon and his team seem to have attained a new level of consistency since the 2009 vintage. After the better part of two decades' experimentation and refinement, Lafon has found a mature aesthetic. What's more, he has devoted considerable attention to the question of premature oxidation, and today monitors dissolved oxygen levels at racking and bottling closely. Since the 2013 vintage, all the domaine's wines have also been bottled under Diam technical corks, and free sulfur levels and bottling practices have been adjusted accordingly. The result is wines that now realize much more reliably the quality they show in barrel. Satiny and succulent, these are some of the most charming wines in Meursault, beautifully defined by their respective climats.

Score: 89 - 91

William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com 04 January 2019