Volnay Santenots du Milieu 1er Cru 1990

The 1990 Volnay Santenots has a typically showy, fruit-driven, almost precocious bouquet with a surfeit of dark plum, raspberry, orange sorbet and glycerine scents that soar from the glass and never let up. The palate has more volume and more viscosity than the 1989: very sensual and quite modern in style when you compare it to the 1985 or 1978. But there is a riveting sense of completeness here, a wine that will not let you down from start to finish and, moreover, you can envisage it continuing to perform at a top level for another 20 years. Drink now-2025+.

Score: 94

Neal Martin, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Maturity: 2013-2025 30 December 2013