Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese 2006

Mango, pineapple, peach, and honey are the familiar leading themes of the 2006 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Beerenauslese, but here components of fig, marzipan, and vanilla add allure, and caramel is reduced to the merest hint. Whiffs of smoke and faintly bitter toasted nut add further interest to a wine which – even more than the corresponding long gold capsule Auslese – is statuesque and monumental rather than dynamic. If there are layers here it seems for now as though these represent a continually replaceable supply of the same basic – albeit alluring – flavors. But once again, it is early days for a wine whose sheer fruit intensity and seductive textural richness (not to mention this estate’s track record) promise more than a half century’s positive evolution.

Score: 95

David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com 30 October 2008