Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Francaises 2005

The vintage wines are among the very best, but the question is whether the rare and fantastic Vieilles Vignes Françaises, made with grapes from non-grafted Pinot vines, can reach even greater heights. The first vintage as a pure Aÿ because the phylloxera attacked the unprotected parcelle in Bouzy. Sad in itself, but for the wine rather a profit. Even fewer bottles and this difficult little flat and excessively obese vintage ought to be a disappointment. The reality was different. The highly expressive and intense aroma is similar to the monumental ’96 at the same age and we’re dealing with a really great vintage of VVF. The Aÿ-aroma shines indeed clearer than usually and the fresh and clear acidity present along with a magnificent grand aromatic spectrum. While it offers so much already, a restrained overall dark-energy of power is ready to be unleashed. The only question mark is whether the decision to make the vintage of a wine without dosage can disrupt the storage potential when I see a couple of grams of sugar as necessary as a conserver to slow down the oxidation in the long run.

Score: 97 - 98

Richard Juhlin, Champagne Club 01 December 2015