In Bond Fine Wine. 2019 Château Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France. First Growth • White sweet white bordeaux in 6x37.5cl. Top critic score: 97/100 (JA). Drinking window: 2022–2050. Sold in bond by Albany Vintners, independent fine wine merchants.
Chateau d'Yquem stands alone at the summit of Sauternes, and in Bordeaux, as the only estate to be ranked Superior First Growth in the 1855 Classification. Its documented history begins in 1593, while its reputation was already international by the 18th century: Thomas Jefferson ordered the 1784 for George Washington. The celebrated 1847 was sold for four times the previous record price for a Bordeaux barrel, the monumental 1921 was widely regarded as one of the greatest sweet wines ever made, and other landmarks include 1967, 1975, the trio of 1988,1989,1990 and the near-mythical 2001. The vineyard occupies the appellation's highest hill where Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc benefit from autumns mists that encourage noble rot (botrytis cinerea). Harvesting is painstaking. Pickers make repeated passes (tries) through the vines selecting individual grapes only when perfectly botrytised and concentrated. Without the correct conditions, Yquem is not released, such as in 2012. The quantity produced is small from yields averaging 9 hl/ha, or just one glass per vine. Yquem itself is extraordinarily rich with freshness, precision and remarkable longevity, evolving over decades from citrus, flowers and tropical fruit towards honey, saffron, spice and toasted nuts. Since 1959 Yquem has also produced 'Y' (pronounced Ygrec) its rare dry white wine, produced from the same exceptional terroir.
Jane Anson (JA) — 97/100 · Inside Bordeaux, 23/06/2022 · Drink 2022-2050
Silky rich depths, clear even on the nose, but tingling mineral limon and citrus flavours, white pepper, basil, apricot. 138g/l residual sugar, 10hl/h yield. A higher percentage of Sauvignon Blanc than in a typical year, showing in sculpted gunsmoke and white truffle on the opening beats. Organic conversion began in August 2019, with certification expected 2022. Winemaker Sandrine Garbay.
James Molesworth (JMol) — 97/100 · Wine Spectator, 01/08/2022 · Drink 2022-2050
A special wine right from the start, this glistens with pure papaya, mango, white peach and mirabelle plum, joined by elderflower honey, toasted macadamia nut and orange blossom notes. Ends with a remarkably long finish. Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2050. 4,583 cases made.
Neal Martin (NM) — 95/100 · Vinous, 01/02/2023 · Drink 2025-2050
The 2019 Yquem has a flirtatious bouquet with yellow plum, honeysuckle and jasmine developing with time. Fine purity, though not showstopping complexity. The palate is smooth and pure. Very nicely integrated oak, creamy, touches of vanilla and creme br'l'e towards the finish. This is a quite gorgeous Yquem, though I am certain that given more time to open it would have merited a higher score. Tas…