Orma 2010

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a towering wine of incredible grace. Frankly, it is hard to imagine how a wine can be so massively structured and finessed at the same time. The 2006 Riserva boasts remarkable depth and power in its dark red fruit, rose petals, licorice, crushed rocks and spices. Layers of fruit build to the huge, sweeping finish. This dramatic and dazzling wine from Poggio di Sotto is on its way to becoming an icon. It is also the last Riserva bottled by Piero Palmucci. Over the last decade or so, Poggio di Sotto has established itself as one of the cult producers in Montalcino. The wines have never been well-distributed in the US and are therefore nearly impossible to find, but insiders know Poggio di Sotto is the real deal. Last year Piero Palmucci sold the property to Claudio Tipa and promptly skipped town. Readers will recognize Tipa as the owner of Grattamacco and Colle Massari. The sale of the winery and the recent passing of long-time consultant Giulio Gambelli have created some uncertainty as to the direction of the wines in future vintages. Tipa told me he has every intention of keeping the house style intact. I am sure that is the case. But I also know that the Poggio di Sotto Rossi and Brunelli are intensely personal wines, and even with the very best intentions, it will be very hard to maintain the soul that made them so compelling. Winemaker Federico Staderini, who worked alongside Gambelli beginning with 2010, is now in charge. I can only wish Claudio Tipa and Staderini the very best with filling the void left by Palmucci and Gambelli.

Score: 96

James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com 01 June 2013