Pontet Canet 2009

Pauillac, Fifth Growth

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Tasting Notes
The 2009 Pontet-Canet needs more encouragement from the glass than its peers, but it rewards the imbiber with seductive pure cassis and blackberry fruit, touches of autumn leaves and pencil box. The palate is medium-bodied with firm but fine tannin, a lovely bead of acidity. A harmonious, brown spice and smoke tinged finish fans out with confidence. You could open this now but it still has two more decades of drinking pleasure to give. Score: 95 Neal Martin, Vinous.com 01 March 2019
Tasted on four separate occasions, including twice at the chateau, though actually showing best at a negociant. Representing 80% of the crop, 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. The nose is very pure, blackberry, small black cherries, a touch of griottes, a hint of cedar and mint. Quite feminine. Not too powerful. Very fine definition. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, insistent grip and good acidity, perhaps one of the most structured, masculine Pauillac 2009s but that does not detract from the finesse and poise. But certainly there is backbone here that segues into a tertiary note towards the finish. Very focused, more minerally elements towards the finish, hints of black truffle and smoke towards the finish. Very good persistency, somehow, an assured Pontet Canet. Superb. Tasted March 2010. Score: 94 - 97 Neal Martin, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com 30 March 2010
This is amazingly expressive now considering how huge it is, with stunning espresso and warm fig confiture aromas followed by lush layer after layer of blackberry paste, cassis and plum sauce. A terrific loam underpinning strides in on the finish, which is weighty but sports serious cut. Equal parts fruit and earth. Best from 2018 through 2038. Score: 96 James Molesworth, Wine Spectator Maturity: 2018-2038 31 March 2012
An amazing wine in every sense, this classic, full-bodied Pauillac is the quintessential Pontet Canet from proprietor Alfred Tesseron, who continues to reduce yields and farms his vineyards biodynamically – a rarity in Bordeaux. Black as a moonless night, the 2009 Pontet Canet offers up notes of incense, graphite, smoke, licorice, creme de cassis and blackberries. A wine of irrefutable purity, laser-like precision, colossal weight and richness, and sensational freshness, this is a tour de force in winemaking that is capable of lasting 50 or more years. The tannins are elevated, but they are sweet and beautifully integrated as are the acidity, wood and alcohol (which must be in excess of 14%). This vineyard, which is situated on the high plateau of Pauillac adjacent to Mouton Rothschild, appears to have done everything perfectly in 2009. This cuvee should shut down in the cellar and re-open in a decade or more. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2075. Score: 100 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Maturity: 2025-2075 01 March 2012
It’s no surprise that proprietor Alfred Tesseron has produced a possibly perfect 2009. He’s been on a roll since 1994, and no other producer has done more work in the vineyard than Tesseron, who has moved to 100% bio-dynamic farming, reduced yields drastically, and instituted a draconian selection process. This vineyard, which sits on the high plateau of Pauillac adjacent to Mouton Rothschild, has produced a 2009 of extraordinary intensity and purity. It is outrageously concentrated, with silky tannin (the sweetest I have ever tasted in a Pontet-Canet as well as the highest measured), an opaque purple color, and copious notes of graphite, cassis, licorice, and subtle smoke and forest floor. Full-bodied and unctuously textured with striking purity and definition, it is a wine of colossal weight as well as elegance (in itself a poster boy for this paradox in 2009). This brilliant Pauillac requires a decade of cellaring despite its voluptuous texture. It should evolve for 50-75 years. (Tasted four times.) Score: 97 - 100 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Maturity: 2020-2095 27 April 2010
Stunning aromas of fresh flowers, with blueberries, blackberries and currants that follow through to a full body, with super balance and finesse. The tannins are super polished. Such class here. Best ever from here. From biodynamically grown grapes. Try in 2018. Score: 98 James Suckling, - Maturity: 2018+ 15 February 2012
Delivers aromas of blueberry skin, fresh flowers, licorice and raspberry sauce, with something exotic underneath it all. Full-bodied, with wonderful clarity and freshness. It's like looking at a full moon on a crystal-clear night in the country. This keeps coming at you, with tannins and ripe fruit. What balance, yet power to the wine. I love how the wine changes and challenges you with every sip. Score: 95 - 98 James Suckling, Wine Spectator 01 April 2010
Bright ruby. Lovely perfumed aromas of fresh red cherry, blackcurrant and violet. Enters full, rich and very suave, showing highly flattering flavors of chocolatey red cherry and red plum along with very good energy, and yet I found myself wanting a bit more precision and lift. There is a wonderfully sumptuous, sensual side to this 2009's fruit. I've been a long-time fan of the wines of this estate (the '66 and '75 are must-buys for any serious Bordeaux lover), but at the moment I marginally prefer the more austere, classic 2008 to this charming '09. Score: 91 - 94 Ian D'Agata, International Wine Cellar 01 May 2010
Yields a bit more than in 2008, with more grand vin too. 81 ha total vineyards. This year they are trying for 24 ha by horse. They can’t tell us the alcohol but think it’s 13-13.5%. Very dark crimson. Firm and broad and very lively with real vibrant elderberry nose - there IS a bit of extra vitality in this wine! Very very nice and satisfying indeed. There is life to this and great breadth and depth. Intense richness that seems to come from the fruit rather than from winemaking. Something of Lafite’s complexity and integrity. Plus Mouton’s richness. Dry finish. Very well done. But it is not a wine you want to undertake young - still lots to sort out. Much less open than most. Dense - really quite dry on the end but appetising though very long term. Muscular. Score: 18 Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com Maturity: 2020-2035 01 April 2010
Dense colour and pure Cabernet blackcurrant fruit beautifully extracted with great length and perfect harmony, great purity of expression, exuberant yet restrained, great future. Score: 18 - 19 Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2016-2030 01 April 2010
Following a radical transformation, Pontet Canet is now one of the most dynamic Chateaux in Bordeaux and now consistently a top Super-Second in quality. Here they take an individual approach pioneering the use of biodynamic techniques in the vineyard. 65CS, 30M, 4CF, 1PV. Even crimson. Gorgeously aromatic with hints of brown sugar, black cherries, currants, blueberries and minerals. In the mouth it is broad and expansive with juicy black fruit, espresso and a hint of smoke. Gentle and smooth texture. Tingling acidity and high but melted tannins. This is already very seductive but it has superb structure and depth continuing all the way through. Excellent ageing potential and a seriously impressive 2009. Score: 95 - 97 Albany Vintners, - 01 April 2010

Tasting Notes

The 2009 Pontet-Canet needs more encouragement from the glass than its peers, but it rewards the imbiber with seductive pure cassis and blackberry fruit, touches of autumn leaves and pencil box. The palate is medium-bodied with firm but fine tannin, a lovely bead of acidity. A harmonious, brown spice and smoke tinged finish fans out with confidence. You could open this now but it still has two more decades of drinking pleasure to give.

Score: 95

Neal Martin, Vinous.com 01 March 2019

Tasted on four separate occasions, including twice at the chateau, though actually showing best at a negociant. Representing 80% of the crop, 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. The nose is very pure, blackberry, small black cherries, a touch of griottes, a hint of cedar and mint. Quite feminine. Not too powerful. Very fine definition. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, insistent grip and good acidity, perhaps one of the most structured, masculine Pauillac 2009s but that does not detract from the finesse and poise. But certainly there is backbone here that segues into a tertiary note towards the finish. Very focused, more minerally elements towards the finish, hints of black truffle and smoke towards the finish. Very good persistency, somehow, an assured Pontet Canet. Superb. Tasted March 2010.

Score: 94 - 97

Neal Martin, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com 30 March 2010

This is amazingly expressive now considering how huge it is, with stunning espresso and warm fig confiture aromas followed by lush layer after layer of blackberry paste, cassis and plum sauce. A terrific loam underpinning strides in on the finish, which is weighty but sports serious cut. Equal parts fruit and earth. Best from 2018 through 2038.

Score: 96

James Molesworth, Wine Spectator Maturity: 2018-2038 31 March 2012

An amazing wine in every sense, this classic, full-bodied Pauillac is the quintessential Pontet Canet from proprietor Alfred Tesseron, who continues to reduce yields and farms his vineyards biodynamically – a rarity in Bordeaux. Black as a moonless night, the 2009 Pontet Canet offers up notes of incense, graphite, smoke, licorice, creme de cassis and blackberries. A wine of irrefutable purity, laser-like precision, colossal weight and richness, and sensational freshness, this is a tour de force in winemaking that is capable of lasting 50 or more years. The tannins are elevated, but they are sweet and beautifully integrated as are the acidity, wood and alcohol (which must be in excess of 14%). This vineyard, which is situated on the high plateau of Pauillac adjacent to Mouton Rothschild, appears to have done everything perfectly in 2009. This cuvee should shut down in the cellar and re-open in a decade or more. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2075.

Score: 100

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Maturity: 2025-2075 01 March 2012

It’s no surprise that proprietor Alfred Tesseron has produced a possibly perfect 2009. He’s been on a roll since 1994, and no other producer has done more work in the vineyard than Tesseron, who has moved to 100% bio-dynamic farming, reduced yields drastically, and instituted a draconian selection process. This vineyard, which sits on the high plateau of Pauillac adjacent to Mouton Rothschild, has produced a 2009 of extraordinary intensity and purity. It is outrageously concentrated, with silky tannin (the sweetest I have ever tasted in a Pontet-Canet as well as the highest measured), an opaque purple color, and copious notes of graphite, cassis, licorice, and subtle smoke and forest floor. Full-bodied and unctuously textured with striking purity and definition, it is a wine of colossal weight as well as elegance (in itself a poster boy for this paradox in 2009). This brilliant Pauillac requires a decade of cellaring despite its voluptuous texture. It should evolve for 50-75 years. (Tasted four times.)

Score: 97 - 100

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Maturity: 2020-2095 27 April 2010

Stunning aromas of fresh flowers, with blueberries, blackberries and currants that follow through to a full body, with super balance and finesse. The tannins are super polished. Such class here. Best ever from here. From biodynamically grown grapes. Try in 2018.

Score: 98

James Suckling, - Maturity: 2018+ 15 February 2012

Delivers aromas of blueberry skin, fresh flowers, licorice and raspberry sauce, with something exotic underneath it all. Full-bodied, with wonderful clarity and freshness. It's like looking at a full moon on a crystal-clear night in the country. This keeps coming at you, with tannins and ripe fruit. What balance, yet power to the wine. I love how the wine changes and challenges you with every sip.

Score: 95 - 98

James Suckling, Wine Spectator 01 April 2010

Bright ruby. Lovely perfumed aromas of fresh red cherry, blackcurrant and violet. Enters full, rich and very suave, showing highly flattering flavors of chocolatey red cherry and red plum along with very good energy, and yet I found myself wanting a bit more precision and lift. There is a wonderfully sumptuous, sensual side to this 2009's fruit. I've been a long-time fan of the wines of this estate (the '66 and '75 are must-buys for any serious Bordeaux lover), but at the moment I marginally prefer the more austere, classic 2008 to this charming '09.

Score: 91 - 94

Ian D'Agata, International Wine Cellar 01 May 2010

Yields a bit more than in 2008, with more grand vin too. 81 ha total vineyards. This year they are trying for 24 ha by horse. They can’t tell us the alcohol but think it’s 13-13.5%. Very dark crimson. Firm and broad and very lively with real vibrant elderberry nose - there IS a bit of extra vitality in this wine! Very very nice and satisfying indeed. There is life to this and great breadth and depth. Intense richness that seems to come from the fruit rather than from winemaking. Something of Lafite’s complexity and integrity. Plus Mouton’s richness. Dry finish. Very well done. But it is not a wine you want to undertake young - still lots to sort out. Much less open than most. Dense - really quite dry on the end but appetising though very long term. Muscular.

Score: 18

Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com Maturity: 2020-2035 01 April 2010

Dense colour and pure Cabernet blackcurrant fruit beautifully extracted with great length and perfect harmony, great purity of expression, exuberant yet restrained, great future.

Score: 18 - 19

Decanter, Decanter.com Maturity: 2016-2030 01 April 2010

Following a radical transformation, Pontet Canet is now one of the most dynamic Chateaux in Bordeaux and now consistently a top Super-Second in quality. Here they take an individual approach pioneering the use of biodynamic techniques in the vineyard. 65CS, 30M, 4CF, 1PV. Even crimson. Gorgeously aromatic with hints of brown sugar, black cherries, currants, blueberries and minerals. In the mouth it is broad and expansive with juicy black fruit, espresso and a hint of smoke. Gentle and smooth texture. Tingling acidity and high but melted tannins. This is already very seductive but it has superb structure and depth continuing all the way through. Excellent ageing potential and a seriously impressive 2009.

Score: 95 - 97

Albany Vintners, - 01 April 2010

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