Nuits St Georges VV 2017

Aromas of raspberries, small red berries, cherries, orange rind and sweet soil tones introduce Chevillon's excellent 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes, a medium-bodied, supple and expressive wine with an open-knit core of succulent fruit and fine-grained structuring tannins. As usual, it's an excellent representation of the appellation. The 2017 vintage is a terrific success for Domaine Robert Chevillon, one of my favorite addresses in all of Burgundy. This is a striking collection of wines that capture the suppleness and charm so typical of the vintage but which display uncommon depth and intensity. As ever, the style is elegantly gourmand, the wines displaying the generous fruit and perfectly ripe tannins that seem to be taken for granted chez Chevillon. Old vines, ploughed vineyards, moderate yields and long fermentations with entirely destemmed grapes are the order of the day at this address, with the Nuits Vieilles Vignes seeing some 20% new oak, and 30% for the premiers crus: Tonnellerie Sirugue is the dominant supplier of barrels. While the wines of Nuits aren't coveted with the same ardor as those of Vosne, Chambolle or Gevrey, this singularly consistent domaine produces wines fit to stand alongside those more glamorous villages' best, and readers who have not yet experienced the Chevillon magic shouldn't hesitate to seek them out.

Score: 89 - 91

William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com 31 January 2019