Chablis Les Preuses, Grand Cru 2011

Surprisingly, the 2011 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is somewhat more supple and open-knit than the corresponding La Forest, offering up pretty aromas of orange blossom, citrus zest, oystershell, iodine and pastry cream. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, elegantly glossy and delicate, with a tangy, saline profile and a detailed finish. This is a precocious Preuses that's already approachable. As is consistently the case, Vincent Dauvissat has fashioned some of the finest wines to be found in both the 2016 and 2017 vintages. 2016 is a small crop, amounting to a mere third of an average harvest. The wines are comparatively low in acidity, with notable concentration, but remaining tense, pure and incisive. By the standards of Dauvissat's wines, I suspect they will prove comparatively precocious but hold well—perhaps evoking the 1992 vintage. The domaine also suffered in 2017, though not as badly, losing some 30% of a normal harvest. The remaining grapes were ripe and clean, producing wines best described as classic but charming. As at several other addresses where long sur lie élevage is the norm, I caught the nascent 2017s very early in their evolution, so I'll try to look at them again later in the year.

Score: 93

William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Maturity: 2015-2026 31 August 2016