CDP Cuvee Mon Aieul 2003

One of the vintage’s most profound wines, the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul has a dense purple color as well as a glorious nose of blackberries, licorice, smoke, and some roasted meats and dried herbs. Amazingly opulent, even voluptuous, with extraordinary purity, a huge tactile impression on the palate, but not heavy by any means, this is a stunning Chateauneuf du Pape from ancient vines made with 95% Grenache and the rest Cinsault and Syrah. Production is about 8,000 bottles, and the wine is bottled after spending its entire life in epoxy-lined tanks, so what one gets is the essence of the three separate terroirs it comes from - Les Serres, Guigasse, and La Crau. I asked the Usseglios what the most abundant years were over the last decade, and was told they were 2000, followed by 1999, 1998, 2001, 2003, and the smallest crop of all, 2004.

Score: 97 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate Maturity: 2006-2020

Deep ruby-red. Explosively perfumed, sexy bouquet of ripe red berries, incense, smoked meat and garrigue Seems fresher than it did on release, with more energy to the fruit. The floral quality carries through the finish, which is sweet, broad and quite long. I'll stand by my original rating.

Score: 92 Josh Raynolds, International Wine Cellar