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NEW: KRUG GRANDE CUVEE 168
As lockdown began, the House of Krug was getting ready to ship their latest Krug, the 168th edition of Krug's ultimate multi-vintage Grande Cuvée. #168 is special - and based around the excellent 2012 vintage.
2012 was a beautiful year with a small crop of particularly excellent, concentrated Pinot Noir. But - there will be no Vintage Krug 2012, in favour of Grande Cuvee - testament to Krug's founding principle of dedicating their best juice to make the best Grande Cuvee every year; & Vintage Krug made second. The quality is there in 2012 but sadly, not the quantity....
42% reserve wines were used - the oldest 1996, another highly acclaimed vintage - adding minerality and tension to dial down the richness of 2012. The final blend is 52% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 13% Meunier from 198 wines, from 11 different years in characteristic Krug complexity.
I tasted a bottle yesterday for the online launch with Olivier Krug - and was struck by its generosity on the nose. - intense, buttery pastry with ripe citrus and candied peel, then buttery and deep like a Grand Cru Burgundy, salty and racy with seamless fine bubbles leading to a long tense finish. Flamboyant elegance.
"I think this is going to be a really great, glamorous Grande Cuvée that will continue to develop in bottle for many years to come."
Jancis Robinson
A fabulous Champagne and undoubtedly the best Grande Cuvee since #164 (£850-900/6 IB), it has already received a huge 19/20 score from Jancis Robinson. Perfect with food, it will give huge pleasure in its richness and depth already, but will gain with age.
"Notably intense aroma with crème pâtissière dominant. Masses of extract and remarkable acidity underpinned by great depth of flavour and beautiful balance on the finish. I think this is going to be a really great, glamorous Grande Cuvée that will continue to develop in bottle for many years to come. I suspect it will be even more enjoyable from the end of 2020. The length on the palate is remarkable. This is magnificently precise, a great tribute to the work of the old cellarmaster Eric Lebel, who is still in the background, and a wonderful welcome to his successor Julie Cavil, who has been learning from him since 2006. Drink 2020-2035."
19/20 Jancis Robinson, JancisRobinson.com
96pts William Kelley, Wine Advocate