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Bordeaux 2017: Troplong Mondot, Fleur Petrus, Pavie Decesse...
8th June 2018.
We begin the day with a flurry of excitement on the Right Bank.
2017 marks a new era for Troplong Mondot, with new director Aymeric de Gironde (previously at Cos d'Estournel) overseeing a move towards fresher fruit, earlier harvesting and less new oak, resulting in lavish praise. The euro release price is almost 30% down on 2016, one of the biggest reductions of the campaign, despite higher scores than the 2016 from many critics. 95-97 WA “This is an extremely surprising 2017”, 96 Decanter “one that I absolutely recommend without hesitation", 95-98 Galloni "easily one of the wines of the vintage". Released at £864 per 12, it is one of the most distinctive 2017s and worth seeking out.
From the owners of Pavie, we can offer Bellevue Mondotte at £1296 per 12 (96-98 WA) and Pavie Decesse (95-97 WA) at £1092 per 12. These miniscule production wines are made from tiny vineyards situated above Pavie. Bellevue Mondotte (95-97 AG) “bristles with the energy and tension” whilst Pavie Decesse “will check in near the top of the vintage”according to Jeb Dunnuck (94-96).
Beasejour Duffau is released at £930 per 12. 95 Decanter "reaching the same heights as some of the biggest names in this vintage, and barely a step down from 2016 - great stuff from these guys this year."
Finally we have a "wine of pure and total sensuality" La Fleur Petrus at £895 per 6 (93-96 AG) picked by Jane Anson as one of the wines of the vintage in Pomerol.
St Emilion
£864 per 12 btl / £432 per 6
95-98 Antonio Galloni "The 2017 Troplong Mondot is easily one of the wines of the vintage. New CEO Aymeric de Gironde (formerly of Cos d’Estournel) and consulting oenologist Thomas Duclos are masterminding a remarkable new chapter in the life of Troplong Mondot. A major stylistic shift in the direction of freshness and energy has resulted in a positively stunning Troplong Mondot endowed with tremendous depth and vibrant. A rush of black cherry, plum, mocha, new leather and spice builds as this gorgeous Saint-Émilion shows off its breeding and total class."
96 Decanter "This is a terroir that doesn't need to be dressed up, as I have said several times in the past, and Aymeric is taking what had already begun under Xavier Parrente to the next level. This is one of the few wines to really make your heart race in 2017, with its blueberry and cool, black fruit notes with zippy minerality and a juicy, slightly saline finish. There is plenty of power, but it's contained, and the fruit is almost surprising in its purity and direction - it makes everyone around the table start talking. This is an extremely surprising 2017, one that I absolutely recommend without hesitation."
£1092 per 12 btl / £546 per 6
95-97 Wine Advocate "a drop-dead gorgeous nose of crushed blackcurrants, red roses, black plums and blueberries with touches of tapenade, cigar box and wood smoke plus a hint of cast iron pan. The palate is medium to full-bodied, firm and incredibly structured with grainy tannins and a lively line supporting the tightly wound fruit, finishing on a lingering mineral note."
94-96 Jeb Dunnuck "From a terroir located just above Pavie, the 2017 Château Pavie Decesse reveals a glass-staining purple color to go with full-bodied aromas and flavors of black raspberries, cassis, liquid violets, and hints of oak. Powerful yet elegant, with building minerality that develops with time in the glass, it stays tight and focused on the palate but has a blockbuster finish. It’s another wine from the Perse family that will check in near the top of the vintage."
£1296 per 12 btl / £648 per 6
96-98 Wine Advocate "has a seriously earthy character—molten rocks—with suggestions of truffles and fertile soil over a core of crème de cassis and plum preserves, plus a hint of camphor. The palate is medium to full-bodied, concentrated, intense and powerful with firm, grainy tannins and wonderful freshness, finishing long."
95-97 Antonio Galloni "Powerful, dark and explosive, the 2017 Bellevue Mondotte bristles with the energy and tension that is such a signature of this tiny 1.5 hectare Saint-Émilion cru. Graphite, smoke, crème de cassis and menthol race out of the glass."£930 per 12 btl / £465 per 6
93-96 Wine Spectator "Intense, with juicy layers of fig, boysenberry and blackberry compote coursing through. Bramble and spice notes fire up on the finish, which kicks in with an extra bolt of energy at the end. A showy wine that pulls it off."
95 Decanter "This is one of the best examples of this wine that I have tasted, reaching the same heights as some of the biggest names in this vintage, and barely a step down from 2016 - great stuff from these guys this year."
Pomerol
FLEUR PETRUS LOW STOCK
£895 per 6
93-96 Antonio Galloni "The 2017 Lafleur-Petrus is dazzling. Bright, lifted and precise, the 2017 captures all the best qualities of the vintage in its radiant fruit, expressive aromatics and silky tannins. A wine of pure and total sensuality, the 2017 is impressive from the very first taste. Medium in body, gracious and exceptionally polished, the 2017 simply has it all."
95 Decanter "Ambitious and well-constructed, it has clear ageing potential. There was no frost here, so they were able to benefit from an early-budding year. That kick of Petit Verdot gives a clear shot of dark, exotic spices through the finish - Christian Moueix was responsible for its addition a few years ago. An excellent La Fleur Pétrus, one of the wines of the vintage in Pomerol."
Please enquire, order online or contact us at sales@albanyvintners.com.
En Primeur wines, offered lying In Bond in the UK Summer 2020.
Wines may be ordered in special sizes for a small supplement (6x150cl Magnums, 1x300cl double magnum, 3x300cl double magnums, 1x600cl imperial) . Please enquire for details.
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