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Bordeaux 2017: Canon, Rauzan Segla, Calon Segur, GPL ...
6th June 2018.
We now have two of the most interesting releases in 2017, two of Bordeaux's finest Chateaux for quality and value for money:
Chateau Canon continues its impressive run over the last 3 vintages when it has been the wine to buy in Saint Emilion, the culmination of long term restructuring and modernisation. The Chateau believe they have attained quality at a similar level to 2016 only with greater emphasis on the terroir, in a purer style. One of the wines of the vintage. "Sensational" JD. "I don't think the 2017 will reach the dizzying heights of the 2015 or 2016 but it will be interesting to see how close it gets." AG. Canon 2015 (100 NM, £2250) Canon 2016 (97-99 NM, £1480).
Second Growth in Margaux, Chateau Rauzan Segla is one of the most impressive wines on the Left Bank. 2015 and 2016 were stunning achievements under winemaker Nicolas Audebert and the 2017 once again displays the sophistication of a standout wine in the appellation, quality close to the First Growths as with the best Second Growths. Its persistent length and well-defined fruit make it a long term Rauzan with a great future ahead and a good buy in 2017. 2015 (£950) and 2016 (£735). "a classy, understated Margaux... What a gorgeous wine this is" Antonio Galloni
Canon and Rauzan Segla are now firing on all cylinders and worth following every year.
From the team behind Ausone, we can offer La Clotte at £280 per 6 IB. This small vineyard is located close to Chateau Ausone on Saint Emilion's limestone plateau, from old vines averaging over over 50 years of age, and is now the 4th vintage since the Vauthier family took ownership. Ausone is one of the wines of the vintage so this small production family jewel is worth seeking out for its combination of "Burgundy-like fruit purity", richness and energy. "What a delicious Saint-Émilion in the making." 92-94pts Neal Martin
From Margaux, Chateau Brane Cantenac is now available. Brane has become one of most impressive wines in the appellation but at £576 per 12, other vintages look more appealing including the stellar 2016 at £630 per 12. Also in Margaux, Chateau Giscours has released and is now available at £510 per 12.
Notably this morning we have Saint Estephe current favourite Calon Segur. A wonderful wine but Calon Segur sells out every year given the small quantity released, and the volume released this year is down by 25%. This is available at £375 per 6, and will need to be allocated to last year's buyers. The very good second wine Marquis de Calon Segur is also available in reduced quantities, at £220 per case.
This afternoon saw the release of Grand Puy Lacoste at £648 per 12, a perennial favourite and strongly recommended by Jane Anson (94pts): "It's one of my wines of the vintage, and a must buy".
St Emilion
£810 per 12 btl / £405 per 6
92-94 Neal Martin "medium-bodied with very fine tannins and good backbone. Strangely, it reminds me a little of modern-day Figeac, that Cabernet component smaller here but very expressive with touches of graphite and flint towards the linear but beguilingly fresh finish. I like the manner in which the limestone shines through the wine here, something noticeable in recent vintages. Whilst not the sensational 2015 or 2016, it is a damn fine Saint-Émilion that will settle at the top of my banded score."
94-97 Jeb Dunnuck "One of the gems in the vintage is the 2017 Château Canon, which checks in at 73% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc. Sensational notes of black cherries, blueberries, liquid violets, awesome graphite, and scorched earth-like minerality all give way to a medium to full-bodied, concentrated, incredibly pure, yet masculine beauty that has building tannin, beautiful purity of fruit, and a great finish. It's not going to match the 2015 on sheer size and scale, but it's a sensational wine. It's going to need 3-4 years of bottle age to be drinkable and will keep for two decades or more."
92-94 Neal Martin "Pauline Vauthiers ventured that this was one of her favorite wines in this vintage and I am inclined to agree. This has a lifted, more perfumed bouquet than the Moulin Saint-Georges at this point, quite perfumed with crushed iris aromas infusing the black fruit. Returning after 20 minutes there is just a touch of orange blossom. The palate is sweet and opulent with caressing tannin, almost Burgundy-like in fruit purity with crushed strawberry, cassis and blueberry towards the silky smooth finish. What a delicious Saint-Émilion in the making."
93-94 James Suckling "This is very pure and beautiful for the vintage with dark-berry and currant aromas. Violets, too. Medium to full body, ultra-fine tannins and a clean finish. From the owners of Ausone."
Margaux
£648 per 12 btl / £324 per 6
94-96 Wine Advocate "a profound nose of cassis, warm blackberries and black plums with touches of baking spices, violets, mocha and smoke plus a waft of garrigue. Medium to full-bodied with a great core of sustained, energetic black fruit, a frame of fine-grained tannins and a lively backbone, it finishes with great length."
92-94 Neal Martin "a fascinating bouquet with pure blackberry, iris, crushed stone and a light estuarine influence that becomes stronger with aeration, just a faint touch of oyster shell developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, crisp acidity, very elegant and refined, possibly the most feminine Rauzan-Ségla in recent years with a silky smooth finish. It is not the instant showstopper like the 2015 - this is more understated and needs time for its quality to be fully appreciated."
£576 per 12 btl / £288 per 6
91-93 Neal Martin "medium-bodied with fine tannin, very linear and precise, not a deep Margaux and unashamedly classic in style with dry, slightly brusque tannin. The finish is dominated by tobacco and pencil lead notes with healthy pinch of pepper on the aftertaste. Classic Brane-Cantenac through and through."
93 Decanter "A lovely wine that sits extremely prettily though the palate, with a seductive expression of florality and blackberry fruits. It's not as powerful as the past two years, but is skilfully worked with soft grilled oak notes. It doesn't sacrifice the excellent quality that this estate has been producing."
£540 per 12 btl / £270 per 6
90-92 Neal Martin "a perfumed bouquet with black fruit, a touch of oyster shell and iris, very pure and quite sensual in style. It does not make an immediate impact but rather grows on you. The palate is medium-bodied, the mouthfeel supple, smooth and harmonious with fine-grain tannin, perhaps just missing a little structure towards the conservative, straight-laced finish. That suggests it will be an approachable Giscours compared to the 2015 and 2016, but one with breeding and class."
93 Decanter "An accomplished, enjoyable Giscours... Damson, bilberry, charcoal and slate are cradled by fine tannins that point to well-controlled extraction. There's no dip through the mid-palate, and the overall structure is juicy and elegant rather than exuberant. A juicy frame that will age well."
St Estephe
£750 per 12 btl / £375 per 6 ON ALLOCATION
92-94 Neal Martin "The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannin, beautifully integrated new oak that lends this a silky texture. Perhaps this is the smoothest of all the 2017s I encountered within this appellation, a classy and sophisticated Calon-Ségur in the making and heightened by the thrilling tension towards the finish and the latent energy that lingers in the mouth. Excellent. "
£220 per 12 btl
88-90 Neal Martin "quite a powerful bouquet that almost dwarfs the 2015 that I tasted alongside. Merlot dominates the aromatics, a mélange of black and blue fruit, later crushed violet making it almost Margaux-like in style. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet core of fruit and crisp acidity. It is quite saline in the mouth and then tapers towards a cedar-tinged finish that expresses the Cabernet Sauvignon. Good potential and a fine second label."
90 Decanter "This has a floral edge to it and a depth of blueberry fruit that's a little shy at first but comes through on the mid-palate. I like how this fits together, with carefully placed fruits and soft tannins."
Pauillac
£648 per 12 btl / £324 per 6
91-93 Neal Martin "I like the mineral tension here, the focus, and hints of freshly shucked oyster shell emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, fresh in the mouth with plenty of cedar and tobacco-infused red and black fruit that drive a long, slightly peppery finish. It is a quintessential Grand Puy Lacoste, sans the frills of the 2016 and yet you can already imagine this being drunk to the very last drop in about ten years time. It is simply a very likeable Grand Puy Lacoste in the making."
94 Decanter "As you would expect in a vintage that has produced such an excellent Lacoste Borie, this GPL is exceptional, a real success that's juicy and carefully extracted. It has weight and impact, with a Pauillac tannic hold and presence. It's one of my wines of the vintage, and a must buy. The balanced, sculpted, juicy black fruits fully deliver personality and signature style."
Please enquire, order online or contact us at sales@albanyvintners.com.
En Primeur wines, offered lying In Bond in the UK Summer 2020.
Wines may be ordered in special sizes for a small supplement (6x150cl Magnums, 1x300cl double magnum, 3x300cl double magnums, 1x600cl imperial) . Please enquire for details.
Sweet wines may be ordered in half-bottles (case of 12x37.5 or case of 24x37.5) at no extra cost.