2016 Vintage Report

Following the great 2015 vintage, the chances of another excellent vintage seemed unlikely - in the first part of the year.  But since September when the first grapes were harvested, reports came back that Chateaux were delighted by the quality of the grapes brought in. 

 “Magnifique” Olivier Bernard, Domaine de Chevalier

“If I’m right, they will age forever” Thomas Duroux, Chateau Palmer.

"If I have to sum up the vintage: lot of energy, freshness with preservation of fruits. Amazing." Hubert de Bouard, Chateau Angélus

The buzz was steadily building around the 2016s and in early April the Albany team tasted through 150 wines to see if it lives up to expectations.

The Background
Weather conditions were troublesome in the first part of the year and many times we were treated to the story of a wet mild winter that broke records for rainfall, continuing into the spring: an average's year rain fell in the first six months of the year.

The summer changed everything with a long hot very dry spell (no rain from July to September - the driest summer for 100 years) and high temperatures well above the average, producing small, concentrated berries. 

A little rain in mid-September was never more welcome, to refresh the vines and swell the tiny grapes. Skins were thick, fully ripe and rich in colour and tannins with good quality juice but not much of it. Despite 20% more berries, volumes produced are usually similar to last year or only a little higher.

Cool night-time temperatures retained acidity and held potential alcohol levels in check. Deep colours and high levels of ripe tannins give the wines a fresh, classical profile, typical of Bordeaux.  With the extreme temperatures, terroir dictates the successes of the vintage.  Water-retaining soils and older vines with deep roots coped best with drought conditions, while properties on fast-draining soils or younger vines suffered from hydric stress and blocked ripening.  These wines lack the energy and bright fruit that characterises the best of 2016.

The Reds
Comparisons with 2015 are inevitable but the vintages are very different.  2015 recalls the voluptuous style of 2009 while 2016 has a fresher profile that makes it closer to 2010 in style.  On both sides of the river, 2016 is notable for its bright aromatics, and gorgeous fruit purity.  Gentle extraction was necessary and this growing trend means that balance and elegance were the words heard most often at the tasting; most of the wines are a joy to taste even at this early stage.

A Cabernet year according to some, including Nicolas Glumineau at Pichon Lalande and Vincent Millet at Calon Segur.  Certainly the Cabernets (Sauvignon and Franc) are very often the star of the show with higher percentages in the blends and so the wines are less voluptuous, more muscular in style but with tannins that are exceptionally refined and velvety.

In quality terms, the northern Medoc is hugely successful, outperforming 2015 with some profound and exciting wines, a hypothetical blend of 2009 for its immediate appeal and 2010 for its ageability.  St Estephe was consistently excellent, there are some stunning wines in Pauillac (our favourites were Mouton, Clerc Milon, Pichon Lalande, Grand Puy Lacoste) and St Julien was very fine indeed with vivacious wines (Leoville Lascases, Ducru Beaucaillou were exceptional with many standouts including Leoville Barton and Langoa Barton, Beychevelle).  Margaux, the southern Medoc and Pessac-Leognan were more mixed but some were truly excellent with a number of stars between them, especially Domaine de Chevalier and Smith Haut Lafitte and the great Haut Brion.

Over on the Right Bank, the wines were fresher than in 2015 with lower alcohols and lovely depth of fruit, and there is a movement towards less oak and shorter extraction.  The plateau of Pomerol is unsurprisingly the pinnacle for the year where Vieux Chateau Certan, La Conseillante, L’Eglise Clinet were exceptional and exciting.  In Saint Emilion, Canon and Figeac were highlights, while Pavie is the freshest and finest that we have tasted. 

Precise vinifications and strict selection at the top estates means good news for the lesser wines too.  Plots that previously would have been destined for the Grand Vin are now going into their second wines, and some of these are better than ever.  What is also especially exciting is that after the long dry summer of 2016, there are successful wines at all price levels, especially those on water-retaining soils.  Many petits chateaux and cru bourgeois are over the moon at the quality this year.  

To sum up, bright fruit with depth, freshness, reasonable alcohol, smooth tannins and classic structure: there is plenty to like in 2016.

Dry Whites
A good vintage in 2016 with pure clean aromatics, full body and texture, and an array of generous ripe flavours.  The wines are already beautiful and will drink earlier than the finest white wine vintages.

Sauternes
A prolonged harvest allowing growers the luxury of easy picking at ideal intervals.  Aromatics are less citric/floral displaying honey and stone fruit notes (peach, apricot, nectarine), rich and full-bodied with decent freshness and acidity.

Timing of the Campaign
We are hopeful for a quick en primeur campaign this year with most of the wines to be released in May.  There is reported to be strong interest from all of Bordeaux’s major markets but we fervently hope that the Chateaux remember that the GBP:EUR rate is very different from last year and not in our favour.  Even if Chateaux maintain the same release prices from last year, there will be an increase of 15% due to currency alone.  How the Chateaux price the vintage will determine just how well it works but the exceptional quality of the 2016 vintage is not in doubt.  Lovers of classic Bordeaux will find much to enjoy.