The Wines
2006 is destined to exist in the shadow of the legendary 2005 vintage, and deservedly so. Quality can be inconsistent but as many commentators have said, as a whole it is a good vintage which has resulted in many good, some outstanding, wines.

The best wines strike the balance between aromatic complexity, weight of ripe fruit (from front to back of the palate), finesse and fresh acidity, and a firm tannic structure. It is a “classic” vintage meaning that it is recognisably, typically Bordeaux with long ageing potential. In the Medoc we heard comparisons such as “1996 but with more density”, “1995 but with better structure” and “1986 but with more flesh”, whilst the best of Pomerol draws parallels with 2001 (itself considered better than 2000 at many estates). So probably better than 2004, 2002 and 2001 Left Bank wines, but not an easy vintage by any standards, due to the unusual weather pattern.

Weather Conditions
The growing season started well. A frost-free Spring right up to a warm, dry and sunny June. July continued dry, and even hotter - in fact it was the second hottest month, after August 2003, since records began. (In London, we remember temperatures reaching 38 degrees around this time). July heat usually continues into August (as in 1990, 2003, 2005) but in 2006 it was an unseasonably cool, dull and drizzly month, resulting in swollen, rot-threatened grapes, high acidities and uneven ripening. September started with sudden hot, hot, heat that reconcentrated the grape sugars. The vintage was again looking very good but the middle of the month was plagued by a week of storms that once again put the crop at risk of rot and dilution. The key to quality in 2006 is therefore terroir (and old vines with deep roots that absorb less groundwater), strict selection and skilful, gentle winemaking.

The Appellations
Unlike 2005, 2006 is not universally successful. Just fifteen years ago, the vintage would have been seriously compromised, but today there are good to very good wines to be found in most appellations. These tend to be the star names, the properties that work in the vineyard throughout the year, practice precision viticulture, and which have the resources (and money) to call on a workforce to harvest at the optimum moment.

In the Medoc, St Julien is consistently good, helped by the volume of great Classed Growth estates here. Some commentators say that these are as good as in 2005. There is generally good fruit density in Pauillac, and individual successes in St Estephe, Margaux and Graves. On the Right Bank, Pomerol is more consistent than Saint Emilion with ripe Merlot but in both appellations, gentle maceration was necessary to avoid over-extraction and heaviness.

The dry whites are very good this year. The grapes were already gathered before the rains and the cool August bringing racy acidity and aromatic complexity. Sauternes is inconsistent but at the top level is said to be wonderful.